Case SC fuel system problem/parts

I've got a '49 SC, and have had my share of fun with rebuilding the Zenith 9667A carburetor (just ask Baggsy!)

I just did a quick search of the Case archives for my posts from earlier this year concerning this particular carb- and here are the rebuild kit part numbers that I've found in my research and the addresses of the web sites of where you can get them.

The attached link listed below is my previous post about what is (or isn't in) included in each type of kit.

1) Tisco rebuild kit, you can order it from Dave Reed at Otto Gas Engine Works. Look down at the bottom under parts for "S" series tractors. The part number is Tisco kit (BK52V).

Link

You probably could get a new sediment bowl from NAPA. They're not that expensive.

If you can't get new butterfly shafts in a kit and yours are worn out you could try this trick. Build up the worn part of the shaft with JB Weld. Then have it turned town on a lathe. I did this years ago on a 1941 SC carb that had worn out brass shafts. That was before JB Weld was even around. I used Delco Remy electrical epoxy. Seems to be the same stuff. If your shafts are worn out you won't be able to adjust your carb.

I'll be happy to help you with any questions you have during the carb rebuild.

As far as replacing the choke shaft- this is only necessary if it is excessively worn or bent. The brass shaft is softer than the cast iron body, so the shafts will decrease in diameter over time. My old shaft was pretty worn out at the ends. I only think it's a problem if it's loose enough to allow air to leak into the throat of the carb. Most of the kits provide a wool "packing". Not sure- but this might be for sealing around an old shaft, if necessary.

Let me offer you some pieces of rebuild advice that I learned by trial and error on my carb:

1) Make sure the float level is adjusted right. The measurement that they give you from the top of the carb body to the bottom of the float is for the CLOSED positon (carb held upside down)- NOT the other way around!

2) Make sure the float doesn't have any pinholes in it. I accidentally creased my old float while adjusting the levels... and it made a pinhole so small it took several weeks to fill up with gas and flood the carb.

3) Trace your old gasket onto the new gasket, if possible. I've always had to cut away portions of the gasket around the floats to get them to clear- as the new gaskets have "D" shaped float holes instead of ovals. (I suppose you could install the gasket before you mounted the floats- but that seemed stupid to me.) Make sure the floats are still free to travel after re-assembling the carb.

4) Always install the needle valve spring, and get yourself a good inline fuel filter to protect the nice clean carb you just built!

5) Make sure the drain hole is clear in the bottom of the intake bowl. This will allow gas to run out so you can see if the floats are sticking, or if the tractor is flooded due to excessive cranking.

As far as your question about the sediment bowl/fuel strainer... I would pull it off for now. I don't have one on my tractor, so I can't give you any advice on troubleshooting them. What I can say is... it's not worth burning up your tractor by ignoring a gas leak.

Good luck, and keep me posted on how it goes. -Schotte