Avery,
My recollection is the tractor has about 34 hp. It should have one set of remote hydraulics, probably an eagle hitch, and live power as standard. It probably will handle 3-14's but that will be plenty. 2-14's will go like a house a'fire.As for the case-o-matic(COM), it is a torque converter drive that has an integral direct drive clutch that can be engaged once you have your load moving providing straight through power to probably an 8 speed(hi-lo+4 speed)gearbox. Since it is a fluid drive system you may experience some gear grinding when shifting gears. Typically to get around that you throttle down to an idle before shifting and use good oil in the COM. The biggest mistake people make with the COM is to attempt to "slip" the clutch using the clutch pedal as you would with a dry clutch tractor. Since the clutch pedal on the COM is nothing more than a valve controlling oil flow to the torque converter you get a serious jerk somewhat like doing a nuetral drop in a car with an automatic transmission if you do this with much of a throttle setting. If you do all your gear changes as close to idle as possible and drive the tractor with the foot throttle instead of the clutch pedal you won't have that problem. When you get the hang of using a COM equipped tractor I think you'll find you can do things that can't be done with a standard dry clutch tractor. For example, once you get the plow going you engage the direct drive clutch, if pulling gets tough or you're having some traction problems you can drop back to the torque converter and usually pull through a tough spot without changing gears or spinning out. Now for the bad part. Since it is a fluid drive system you have to be mindful of the oil and filters and perform regular maintenance. Before you buy the tractor run it around for an hour or so to get the oil warmed up good, and check to make sure the direct drive clutch firmly engages. You should get a good firm respone when you engage it. Also check to make sure the COM system pressures are within the correct operating range. If the direct drive does not work, walk away. It is usually a costly repair. If the COM system pressure is low probably walk away, unless you can have the guy change the filters and it recovers. Bottom line on the COM drive is it is a good system unless until it breaks, and then it gets costly to repair. My grandfather had 611b (411's big brother) that had over 2500 hours on when it was sold and never had one problem with the COM. I am a big fan of the COM and it got a bad rap from people who had no clue on how to operate their tractor, and never made any attempt to learn. That aside, the biggest problem with the COM was the failure of a bushing that causes the direct drive to not work. Also poor maintenance of the COM system can cause a worn pump and/or control valve that reduces the system pressure. The engine, gear boxes, and final drive are close to bulletproof with any amount of reasonable care. In my opinion, provided the COM system works correctly you won't finder a nicer tractor of that vintage to use, period. As for buying that one, I guess you have to go with your gut feeling. Does everything check out, has it been well maintained or rode hard and put up wet. Good Luck and let us know what you come up with.
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