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Broken exhaust bolt

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Ted in Sacramen

06-13-2003 20:15:32




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I have an original orchard exhaust (the cast sqaushed/flared short downturn) which I want to put on my 48 VAO, however when I removed the old but nice vertical straight pipe, I broke one bolt at the gasket the other came off easy. I drilled and put in the easyout and it's still really stubborn, I don't want to break the easyout. I know I'm not the first and I haven't checked the archives yet, but I'll take any advise I can get. Thanks

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C. Amick

06-16-2003 09:44:26




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
The only way I've had any success in getting bolts out of old manifolds is to heat the corner where the bolt is until it gets cherry red. It usually takes two people, one to hold the torch on it to keep it hot and the another person to work on the bolt with the easy-out or what ever you are trying to use. If you have drilled a big enough hole and there is not much of the old bolt left, you might try cutting it out a little at a time with a threading tap.

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scottAR

06-15-2003 19:14:31




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
HELI-COIL is the answer!



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Td in Sacamento

06-14-2003 20:14:33




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
Well I messed around with the Devil's tool (easyout), at least that's what John Boehm called it, but was smart enough not to break it off. After drilling, grinding, picking, I finished drilling with a 9/32 bit and chased the original threads, about 30 degrees at a time, back and forth for about two hours, liberal lubricant, backing completely out after maybe half a thread. Put back with the same gasket, stainless bolts and NO-OXIDE, I don't plan on taking it off but who knows. Next time I'll just drive it to CASEPOWERS it will be less work. Good News I'm sporting a sweet downturn/flare/squash/cast original Orchard VT-220 exhaust. Thanks

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CASEPOWER

06-14-2003 20:51:05




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 Re: Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Td in Sacamento, 06-14-2003 20:14:33  
Theres not a one of us here that had any doubt that you couldn't do it. Go to your brothers with a couple of pieces of steel and start playing with that welder. If it's a stick learn how to weld with it then buy a wire welder and it will make you think your the best welder in the world.



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Ted in Sacramento

06-14-2003 21:44:18




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 Re: Re: Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to CASEPOWER, 06-14-2003 20:51:05  
How far is it to your house? Thanks and at the risk of sounding to sentimental I love this VAO and on the heels of my exhaust I going to spring for new front tires.



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mj

06-14-2003 12:24:40




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
I have a set of left-hand drills that I only use for drilling out studs and bolts and a lot of the time they will unscrew before the drilling is done. You can also blow one out with a cutting torch or air-arc pretty easily since the torch won't cut the cast, just the steel. If the stud or bolt is into a blind hole it's a bit more tricky than when the tapped hole goes clear thru. :-)



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Mike from Canada

06-14-2003 11:08:28




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
ummm, everyone has had their own experiences w/ manifold bolts but they all seem arbitrary. if you have acces to an oven (kiln) or something that will heat the cast iron evenly, remove the entire manifold from the tractor and heat it up for an hour. then get a can of liquid wrench or some diesel based lubricant and spray the bejesus out of the sheared bolt. that e-z out should break it loose then (if it doesnt loosen the e-z out). thats the problem w/ this post-war cast. its really poor quality and porous. if its not heated evenly and slowly itll crack like an egg at sunday breakfast.

if it sounds like a lot of work, then just remove the e-z out, broken or not, and drill the broken bolt out with a bit large enuff to re-tap a 3/8 hole.

replace the bolts w/ stainless steel ones. you may even be able to run them from the inside out if you have the room so you can just put a nut on the outside. just remember, when you put in the new bolts, coat them liberally w/ anti-sieze lubricant this will keep them from snapping off if you have to replace your exhaust again in the near future.

good luck!

mike

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Ted in Sacramento

06-14-2003 08:00:04




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
Have no welder or air tools I'm definitely mechanically challenged. Not to say I don't envy those with the big shop, but I'm going to try a larger hole and easyout, after I use a punch and hammer to imitate the air hammer technique, I think if I can break the rust bond I may not have to drill, grind and pick, but that will be next.
Thanks to all.



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Paul f

06-14-2003 07:18:21




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
Ted; I am welding challenged (don't have one and can't weld...my brother has one ..can't weld either). Have had a couple of broken bolts in my DC. It ain't high tech but I drill it out with as big a bit as possible that will not hit the threads (I never seem to get the drill perfectly centered..neither have I had any luck with left handed drills or easyouts)
Then using a tungsten carbide cutter in a dremel moto tool I cut grooves the length of the bolt until I just begin to see threads show. I make two or three grooves and then use chisel and picks to peel the remains of the old bolts out. Has worked each time and after the first one have had no noticeable damage to threads.
Paul f

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Don L.

06-14-2003 06:17:37




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
I mostly use a air chisel with a large blunt end, and hold it "tight" to the cast,and the bolt,[don't let it jump around], held in a vise. work it ,work it work it. If the head of the bolt is still on, use it. If the part on top is bad, break it off around the bolt. If the head of the bolt is poor, grind them off, remove the part, and the stubs will be there to work with a good vise gripe. If broken off flush , weld a nut to it. Go for a "MICO" movement, is the trick.

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CASEPOWER

06-13-2003 20:39:06




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 Re: broken exhaust bolt in reply to Ted in Sacramento, 06-13-2003 20:15:32  
I don't like to use ez-outs. I put a washer over the broken bolt and weld it to it through the hole in the washer. Then I weld a nut to the washer by welding through the hole in the nut. After it cools enough to loose its orange glow I try to turn it out. Since you have already drilled a hole I would drill it and tap it back to 3/8.



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