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Mike
05-14-2003 12:57:15
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Re: 977 CAT REPAIR OF CRACKS IN SPROKETS in reply to BOB, 05-14-2003 04:14:38
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The cracks in the sprockets can be veed out and welded, using 7018.Unless it is a pony start, the engine has glow plugs. They are activated by turning the start switch to the left. Watch your ammeter as you turn the switch to the left, it should show a 20-50 amp discharge. Hold for 15-30 seconds depending on the temperature, and then turn the switch to the right to crank it,it should start. If you are not getting a discharge at the ammeter when the switch is turned to the heat(left), check the wiring to the glow plugs. They are located next to the injectors in the head. Should have 24 volts when in the heat position. They go into a steel loom and then toward the rear of the engine, at the end of the loom there should be a fairly heavy wire plugged in to it. From there it goes back up to the heat/start switch. Can you be more specific about the series of the tractor, some had dry brakes, where the later ones had wet brakes. Like was said below, the booster can be removed and resealed, or if it is a dry brake tractor, you could also be getting oil from a leaky seal on the bevel gear case or the pinion seal is leaking into the brake housing. The costs on this will vary depending on machine series, and the cause of the problem. Brakes can be relined, aftermarket steering clutch parts are readily available. If the steering clutches have to be removed, its alot of heavy lifting and work to get them out. Fuel tank must be removed,booster must be removed, steering clutches unbolted and lifted out(200+lbs.) Then more disassembly depending on the cause of the leaks. I use a service truck with a crane on it now, but I have done it with another loader tractor and come along ( when things get close to going back together you need some reasonably precise lifting equipment) The best way to clean it would be a hot water washer(steamer),and clean everything before you start working on it to keep dirt,grease etc. out of the sreering compartments. Adjust the tracks by pumping grease in the fitting on the track adjuster(under a cover in the middle of the track frame) until tight, mark the idler, then loosen the nut next to the grease fitting that you pumped the grease into,letting some grease out until the idler moves back about 1/2 inch. I would also recommend getting a set of manuals for it.
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