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Operation of older td24 international crawler

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Mark Einsele

06-19-2003 12:23:18




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Hi, I have obtained a older cable blade td24 ??
anyway where are the brakes? there are no foot pedals.. long handle on left is clutch..shifter
on right,two shorter handles in middle.. Im guessing frictions..are the brakes on these handles somehow ? how do you stop this unit? what are the positions on shifter..ie/ where is first,second,etc. also what is the other handle
on the left,this side of clutch,looks like 3 position,is that forward & reverse??also how to ajust winch on cable blade ?? THANKS MUCH, Mark

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jyghgjhj

12-31-2004 16:38:23




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 Re: operation of older td24 international crawler in reply to Mark Einsele, 06-19-2003 12:23:18  
Hello my name is ron monroe and I am about to buy a TD24. The machine has been sitting out side for about ten years now. The man said he started about three years ago. He wants 3000$ for it. The machine seams to be in good shape but the bushings have quite alot of wear on one side and nead to be turned. The other side has already been turned. The machine does have a roof over the back half of it. The machine is also yellow all the other TD24s I have seen are red. Does anyone think that I should buy it or not. Thanks

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Jim

09-11-2003 22:17:43




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 Re: operation of older td24 international crawler in reply to Mark Einsele, 06-19-2003 12:23:18  
I am working on an old TD24 crawler and the cable lift mechanism is jammed. Probably froze up due to water spilling down into the clutches. How do you get in there and free them up? Thanks. Jim



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Woody

09-11-2003 13:02:01




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 Re: operation of older td24 international crawler in reply to Mark Einsele, 06-19-2003 12:23:18  
Just wandered onto this discussion, so this may be a little late in the game. Mark, the first thing you need is a complete set of manuals for your tractor. All of the advice you've been given so far is accurate (my compliments) but the adjustments for the steering, the brakes, the blade winch, and the booster pump (clutch and brakes) is pretty complicated and specification sensitive. They are listed in Yesterday's Tractors catalog. They're worth every penny! Follow the instructions to the letter regarding the brake adjustments. I have several thousand hours on TD-24's and wouldn't dream of trying to best-guess the adjustments. One caution: Let it idle down for a spell before shutting the engine off after a long work session. Otherwise, those cylinder heads will crack in an instant. IHC used to recommend dropping it down to gas (natural aspiration, they called it) and idle for 5 to 10 minutes. Some operators claim that just idling on diesel is good enough. I've done both with success.

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Deas Plant.

06-21-2003 00:42:33




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 Re: operation of older td24 international crawler in reply to Mark Einsele, 06-19-2003 12:23:18  
Hi, Mark. As Bob said, you will be in for quite a ride. The only time I ever drove one was in 1966 and 'drive' is the operative word -- not operate, because that was all I got to do with it, drive it around the yard. We repaired it and got it ready for work and the next day the company sent me out on a Cat D8.

These toys don't have steering clutches and brakes like a Cat. They are a planetary steering similar to a Case but having a brake on each track too, a la Cletrac, so that you can partially or completely lock one track up for sharper turns.

As Bob said, both steering levers forward is low range, both levers back is high range and one forward (low) and the other back (high) will cuase the tractor to turn to the side which is in low range. It doesn't matter where the other lever is if you pull one right back to brake a track, it will still turn to the side that you brake. The only difference is whether it turns fast or slow, although this is also controlled to some degree by how hard you pull back on the lever to apply the brake. (The later TD 25's had a similar system.)

Like Bob, my memory is a little hazy about what sort of arrangement they had for parking/stopping the machine -- I only drove it on flat ground - but it stopped anyway when you knocked the hand clutch out. I don't remember there being a brake pedal so I'd guess that braking was somehow automatic. (It WAS 37 years ago.)

The same company had one TD 24 with a foot clutch. The other operators reckoned it was a real mongrel of a thing to do a day's 'dozer work with as it really wore out your left leg with the constant changing of gears. (I never got to operate it.) They did say however that it wasn't bad when you were chaining timber with another 'dozer. If you wanted to stop for a bit to let the other machine catch up, you just sat there for a few seconds with your foot on the clutch and then let it out again when you were ready.

You don't mention whether you have a front- or rear-mounted cable control so I'm guessing you have the rear-mounted as you haven't commented on its placement. Either way, if you have not been able to get the winch clutch to behave by adjusting it, you need to take it apart and clean it up. While you are at it, you might as well clean up the winch brakes too as these can be just a tad (????? ?) dangerous if they are not working properly. Little dramas like the blade coming down 'thud' unexpectedly while you are travelling along -- or even standing still (NEVER get under an un-propped blade while it is raised.) -- or the brake not grabbing when the blade is raised and the lever returned to neutral don't do a lot for one's peace of mind.

When the TD 24's came out they were the same horsepower as the Cat. D8's of the time (130hp) but about 3,000# heavier. Soon after that, International boosted the horsepower to 140 hp, making it the heaviest and most powerful crawler tractor available at the time. Cat. struck back around 1950 with a 150 hp D8 and I think this reamined the biggest single-engined crawler until the Cat. D9D hit the market in 1955, although Buster Peterson of Peterson Engineering in Calif. built 3 double D8's around '49-50 and Euclid brought out the twin-engined TC 12 in about 1955.

Hope this helps.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Bob/Ont

06-21-2003 12:14:40




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 Re: Re: operation of older td24 international craw in reply to Deas Plant., 06-21-2003 00:42:33  
Hey Deas, I saw the foot clutch version in the manual but never one in the Iron, must have been good for pulling scrapers though. I have heard it said that old IHC tractors where less likely to get stuck in a swamp than a Cat, likely the two speed steering. In soft going pull a clutch and put all the power to one track and you are likely to break through the surface.
Later Bob



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Deas Plant.

06-23-2003 02:02:34




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 Re: Re: Re: operation of older td24 international in reply to Bob/Ont, 06-21-2003 12:14:40  
Hi, Bob. As mentioned in the earlier post, I never got to run either on a work site. I only got to drive the hand clutch one a couple of laps of the yard. The man who did run the foot clutch TD 24 said it was good for drawbar work such as pulling scrub and timber with 2 'dozers and a chain but a serious pain in the - ah - ah - ah - leg when using it for blade work. I would imagine that using it to pull a scraper would be similar to chaining. The only time I ever got to use a pull scraper was behind a power-shift D7E. Spoiled, aren't I?

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Bob/Ont

06-19-2003 16:18:33




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 Re: operation of older td24 international crawler in reply to Mark Einsele, 06-19-2003 12:23:18  
Mark when you get her fired up you are in for the ride of your life, trust me. The Clutch lever is forward disengaged back engaged. You will have to figuer out the shift pattern as I forget that, the other lever is the reverser that works on all gears but high. The two center levers are the Two Speed Steer Levers, they are the fun part. They can be both pushed forward for High speed and pulled back half way for Low speed and all the way back for Brake. The trans is syncromesh so you can jamm her through the gears on the fly(use the clutch). Do that first to get used to it, and steer a bit in first gear to get used to that too. Then when you feel adventurous get into a large flat open area and let her rip in high, one steering lever in high and one in low. It is a strange sensation running a big tractor like that wide open and it going in a circle with you doing nothing to the controls. As always be carefull and be ready with the clutch. The blade control should be towards you for up and away from you to drop.
Enjoy, Bob

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mark einsele

06-19-2003 16:44:30




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 Re: Re: operation of older td24 international craw in reply to Bob/Ont, 06-19-2003 16:18:33  
Thanks Bob !!what about the square ajustment on the blade winch..when we tried to start it the blade wanted to come up no matter what we did with control lever(just from the starter) so we turned the square nut on the winch to let it down,
don't quite get it..the lever on the blade seems to be working..on stoping, do you disengage clutch then pull back on steering levers?? Can you lock brakes ?I had a td9 Im guessing it starts the same?? (pull back on the starting lever ..(down left..)and give some throttle then after warm push in changeover lever.. is that correct ?? Thanks so much.. you have been great help..sincerely, mark

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Bob/Ont

06-19-2003 19:04:57




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 Re: Re: Re: operation of older td24 international in reply to mark einsele, 06-19-2003 16:44:30  
Mark, the starting is similar but in warm weather you can start direct on Diesel if you want. To stop you throw out the master clutch and use the brake if you like. I think the brake needs oil to release and will be on when you stop, not sure though. The peddel will put the brakes on too. I rebuilt the trans and two speed steering on one of them 24 yrs ago and drove it after but that was a long time ago. The square on the cable control is for the clutch adjustment. There should be a locking clamp bolt you release and move the square. I don't know which way to turn it but if you slack it off so the cable will not pull, get the tractor running then adjust it to pull then back off just enough for it not to, then lock it up, it should be right.The clutches might be rusted together and have to be pulled out and cleaned up if you can't slack them off to not pull.
Later Bob

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mark einsele

06-19-2003 20:01:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: operation of older td24 internatio in reply to Bob/Ont, 06-19-2003 19:04:57  
Thanks bob..there are no pedals on the unit..
mabey its not a 24?? thats what I was told..
where would I look..?? this unit looks like its in good shape tracks rollers etc I can't wait to get it going (tommorow after noon) ..that would be nice if the brakes are on when I stop.Its a little spookie because Im used to a smaller machine.. oh well it will be an adventure.. by the way Im up in the mountains west of yreka ca,
Im logging on 40 acres.. anyway
,...Thanks again for your time, Mark

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Bob/Ont

06-20-2003 15:57:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: operation of older td24 intern in reply to mark einsele, 06-19-2003 20:01:07  
Mark, if it starts on gasoline and has two speed steering then it must be a TD24. The TD25's all started direct on diesel I believe.
Later Bob



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Mark Einsele

06-20-2003 16:53:57




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: operation of older td24 in in reply to Bob/Ont, 06-20-2003 15:57:37  
Hi bob..Well we got her running but she dosen't steer well at all..seems when I want to turn left
I put the right handle forward and the left handle back but its still pretty bad !! do I need to put some kind of oil in the brakes ..steering ,where is the filler..and what kind of oil ..should I try ajusting something??
also the blade winch keeps wanting to come up..when I ajust it like you said ..its fine till you pick up blade. then it wants to keep going up and we had to shut down ,let down by cranking down on winch adjustment..there is no place in betweenwhere it will come up and then let down!!Does this unit use oil in its clutch .WHAT TO DO ??? sure would like to get this baby to steer,and I would feel better about driving it over the mountain if the blade was working
Anyway the engine she runs pretty good.Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I should give you part interest in this thing..To bring it back to life is a good thing ,so it dosen't get wasted .. THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP Mark

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Bob/Ont

06-20-2003 19:16:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: operation of older td2 in reply to Mark Einsele, 06-20-2003 16:53:57  
Mark, email me and send a pic of the cable control if you can. I might be able to help if I could see what you have. I think you need to pull out the clutches and clean them up. They are likely rusted up and jamming. When you have the engine off and the blade up the blade should fall when you push the lever as far away from you as you can.
Later Bob



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Mark Einsele

06-21-2003 08:38:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: operation of older in reply to Bob/Ont, 06-20-2003 19:16:35  
Hi Bob,we will try cleaning those clutches, I will send a photo of the blade winch,what is your email address..or can I send it somehow to YT ?Did you have any Ideas on the steering , brake problem??It seems like when you try to turn(one handle back other in low position)
it dosn't want to turn.it wants to turn a little better with one handle back other in high.....you
had said something about oil operated . Its really
good of you to pass on the info,not a whole lot of guys around that know much about these older machines!!!! Thanks much , Mark

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Bob/Ont

06-21-2003 12:06:50




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: operation of o in reply to Mark Einsele, 06-21-2003 08:38:24  
Mark you can get the Email address by hitting my name, it's un hid. The trans oil is common with the two speed steering. Email and I will explain the steering more. It's basically like a powershift trans in there, three big steel disc's and brake calipers grabing the one you need at the time.
Later Bob



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RICHARD

06-22-2003 17:02:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: operation in reply to Bob/Ont, 06-21-2003 12:06:50  
mark is this winch on front or rear of tractor? is it a IH winch or a buycrus erie?
The info I get from earlier posts sounds like your "brake" is to tight. on a old cable winch like a 24 used there is a brake and a clutch, each one having a brake lining around each drum,when you pull back on the lever(front mounted winch) this stops the drum from turning and engauges the winch to roll up the cable.
when you push it forward it release's the other drum so cable will come out.
as far as the tractor turning you have a small 7 gpm hyd pump mounted on RH side of engine rear of timing cover. this is only for steering.
there are two wire screen filters on by the strg pump and one down by the rh side of frame, if steering is week you first need to make sure these are clean, if it were me i would drain hyd strg. system( you never know what cheap walmart type oil someone has used) and replace with 10w motor oil or case-IH hytran(hytran is what i use) right next to the fuel cap there is a square headed plug, that is your fill plug.now to make sure you dont have air in the system, before you try and fill resivior there is a plug or drain cock on RH side of accumulatior, pull it out or open it wich ever the case may be. and start to fill hyd resivor watch accum. when you get a good stream of oil comming out with no air bubbles put plug in quickly. now start it up and try steering
good luck
Richard

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