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Pete
09-11-2003 02:04:30
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Re: D2 Cat in reply to gary, 09-10-2003 21:28:59
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Gary -- Well, the specifics depend a little on the series of the old girl. I'm most familiar with the 8U series D6; the 2U D2 is set up the same way, but I'm not 100 % on the older D2s. Anyway, your levers might be a bit different, but the same steps must be done. First off, if she's set for 30 years, definitely check the coolant and change the oils -- pony crank, diesel crank, and pony clutch compartment at least. The pony (at least on the U series) is an opposed 2-cyl. mounted on the rear of the diesel. The crankcase drain, fill and dipstick are all on the right of the tractor (as if you're sitting in the operator's seat). Drain is a little tube, about 3/4" dia. coming off the top of the clutch compartment. She should take about 1 qt. of SAE 30. Diesel crank drain is roughly center of the front belly pan. Don't know capacity of a D2 but it should also be SAE 30, although SAE 40 is often used. Filters should be on the right side in canisters. CAT should still have them available. The pony clutch compartment should have a 1/4" pipe plug on the forward cover and a 3/4" drain on the bottom of the housing where the clutch lever is mounted. Okay, starting instructions: (fill gasoline and diesel tanks :) ) 1. Make very sure the transmission and reverser are in neutral and brake set. 2. Move pony clutch lever rearward to vertical (released) position. 3. Open gasoline valves 4. Open (turn on) magneto switch 5. Move diesel decompression lever to decompressed (start) position. 6. Position pony throttle and choke for starting (every one is different, but try 1/2 throttle with almost full choke to start with.) 7. Wind rope and pull (or use electric starter) 8. (if using rope) fall on butt and curse Caterpillar (if using electric starter) find battery dead and curse Caterpillar. 9. Assuming she starts, get pony running smoothly at a reasonable idle with choke full open. Word of caution -- the D2 and D4 ponies don't have their own water pump, so don't run them for more than a few minutes without turning over the diesel. Once running well, move pony clutch lever rearward to engage brake and simultaneously lift up on pinion lever. This will take some practice, but the pinion will engage with a smart snap. Once it does, drop pinion lever back down, advance pony throttle and move pony clutch forward to engage clutch. You'll probably want to get off the track and stand well clear, just incase something is wrong and she starts moving on you. 10. Let diesel crank decompressed until oil pressure and fuel pressure are up. 11. Once diesel lube oil pressure is up, move decompression lever to closed (run) position. You'll probably have to throttle up the pony a little. Allow diesel to spin against compression for a "while." Assuming warm weather, I'd still go a minute or so since she's been sitting a long time. 12. When you think she may fire, open diesel throttle to about 3/4 throttle. If she doesn't take right off, observe the stack. White smoke is unburned fuel -- it's okay, keep cranking. Black or grey is starting to fire, it's better, keep cranking. If no smoke, or faint white that doesn't go black eventually, then you've got fuel issues -- which you very well may after so long. 13. Once diesel fires, lower deisel throttle so you can hear yourself think, move pony clutch to released position, throttle pony down as needed and shut off gasoline. DO NOT, I say again DO NOT just shut off the magneto!!!! Allow the pony to run the carbeuretor bowl bone dry and stall out for lack of fuel -- then close (turn off) magneto switch. Failure to do so will cause liquid gasoline to dribble out of carb. due to vibration and eventually end up in your pony crankcase oil causing lubricant failure = pony death! Hope this helps a little. Good luck! If something doesn't go right, let us know. PS Where are you located? I'm sure some on the board may be interested in looking at the old girl if you do want to sell. Pete
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