Farmall AV and 140 hi crops

Another idea you might consider is 11" rear rims and 12.4x24 tires and 16" front rims with 6.00x16 front tires. This will give a 140 4" more crop clearence. I've done this with my 130 and 140.

Another question that has come up here in discussions many times is drive line ratio. Many folks will try and tell you all transmission, differential and final drive ratios are the same on all these offsets from 1939 to 1979. There is a part number difference in final drive reduction gears between letter series and number series tractors, however I don't have an actual tooth count.

Here is my experience however, My Super A turning roughly 1,500 rpm and 9.5x24 tires is very close in speeds to my 130 turning 1,650 rpm with 12.4x24 tires. My 140 is quite a bit faster turning 1,650 with 12.4x24 tires. In fact if someone told me my SA and 140 had the same final drive ratio, I wouldn't be calling him a liar, nor would I argue very long. I bring this forward as, I can't imagine putting 36" tires on my 140. It would be close to impossible to back with any accuracy. You definitely will not back wagons in a confined envoirment, ie. through the barn doorway, unless it's three times width of wagon. I have a 12' two wheel trailer, and have only hitched to it once with 140 with those 12.4x24 tires. I like those 12.4x24 on 140, gives me great plowing, disking and tillage speeds, not bad on row crop cultivation. In real tough plowing with 2x12, I can go to 1st gear and still make decent time, compared to the other tractors, and in good plowing I can go 2nd. My disk is a bit too much in 3rd, yet 2nd gives me decent speed. I also like the increased 3rd gear speed for my field cultivator and rotary hoe. just forget that wagon backing.

Just want to 2nd your analysis of 12.4 x 24 tires on a 140. I switched to these tires on my 140's and think they are great.

I noticed the clearance between the rear tire and the end of the curved belly cultivating bars got tighter with the new tires. The clearance is now 4 1/4". A 36" tire would narrow this gap another 6". In other words it have have to be narrower (lower profile) to avoid hitting the belly bars. The lower profile required with 36" tires minimizes the height increase when switching from 12.4 x 24" tires. Just something to consider.

My fronts are 5 x 15. How can I get 16" wheels, and will the tractor be level if I do?

The 16" rims for a 140 are available from Miller Tire in Ohio. You simply ask them for 4.5x16, 6 hole, 6" bolt circle, +1-1/8" offset. It's on page 18 of their 2006 catalogue. I don't have their 2007 catalogue yet.

On my tractors, 130 if you place a level on the platform with 12.4x24 rear and 6.00x16 front, it sets perfectly level. The level will also be very close on hood between gas tank and rad. The 140 with 12.4x24 rear and 5.50x16 front is about 1/8" low on front in length of level. Bear in mind also, my 140 rears are new, 130 rears are probably 60%. Both set of front tires are new. The 5.50x16 actually look better. The 6.00x16 seem too big for that size tractor, although I like them very much for plowing snow. They roll over frozen ridges much easier. When I had 15" up front, plowing snow, I was forever pushing too far, snow falling over blade, then I get that little tire in a frozen hole, and then couldn't back away. Off to the shop I'd go, get 140 to tow 130 out. I have not had that happen in 3 winters with those 16" wheels up front.

My tire combination of 12.4x24 and 6.00x16 gives close to 4" more crop clearence than 9.5x24 and 5.50x15. I think a high crop only gives about 7" more crop clearence than standard SA with 9.5x24 and 5.50x15.

He installed them on a Farmall 100 to use for cultivating in what he calls his veggie garden, which is about 5 acres in size.

I don't know if the design of the 100 and the 140 are alike or not, maybe some else does and can answer this question better than I can.