Farmall C Starter Question

The problem is with the copper "node" that the starter switch contacts to make connection. It is severely worn from years and years of use - to the point where it no longer makes contact when the switch is engaged.

Is this part serviceable? It looks like it might be, but I did not spend any time yet looking further into it. I think I could resolve the problem by ROTATING the note 180 degrees actually.

(I got around the problem temporarily by removing one of the starter switch mounting screws. This allowed the switch to "skew" when engaged - which allowed the motor to start)

Thanks!

Carfully heat the stud on the outside until the solder start to melt on the inside. Blow the old solder out, being careful where the solder lands, and bend the field coil leads enough to make sure they are free. If they are still stuck, reheat and blow more solder out. Remove the nut and the stud will come out. Note how the insulators are installed. It is a good idea to replace them along with the stud. If the stud has a small washer face on it there probably will not be a steel washer next to it. Otherwise there should be.

Parts should be in this order:

1) Stud
1) Steel washer (not used on some studs)
1) Large insulator washer
2) Small insulators (fit inside the hole)
1) Large insulator washer
1) Steel washer
1) Nut

To reassembly, clean the slot in the new stud so it shows bright copper. Assemble the above parts in the proper order. Bend the field coil ends so that the stay seated in the bottom of the slot. Carefully heat the outer end of the stud while applying solder to the inside end. Remove the heat as soon as the solder starts to melt. The copper will transfer heat rapidly but be careful to allow enough time and not apply so much heat it burns the insulators. If the solder does not flow smoothly apply a little more heat until the solder flows to both the stud and the field coil ends. When reassebling the starter, make sure the field coil leads do not touch the armature. Bend then toward the case if necessay.

H & M starters that have a threaded stud for the battery cable, very often have cracked solder joints on the inside. This method works well to repair them also.

I apprreciate that detailed feedback. I may give it a go if my attempt at a repair doesn't work. (I plan to slot the holes in the saddle switch base and move the switch forward about 3/32")

-- Ken

This sounds right. I guess I will end up taking it to a starter shop then. Unless I can come up with another idea.

Actually now that I think of it, I may just drill 2 more holes in the saddle switch base so I can permanently attach it "moved forward" slightly. This should allow enough additional travel on the switch to make contact....

Hey I think this might work!

Same as MNScott, I had the starter shop solder in a new contact button on the starter for my Super M. They charged me about $20.

Before I do that, I'm gonna slot the holes on the saddle switch and move the switch forward.

That is not the part in question. The part that is worn is the electrode on the starter motor case itself. The "starter button" you are referring to is fine.

-- Ken

Mine had a coating also. And I cleaned everything up with a dremel wire brush. And it worked ok the next time. But my real problem is the electrode on the starter motor itself.

Thanks.

-- Ken

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New saddle mount switches are available if you need one.

I have a new saddle switch. But the switch is not the problem here.

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:)

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