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Ryan, Did you wire her up per Bob M"s Wiring Diagrams????? For an ammeter to work, in addition to it being good, it MUST be wired with its input SUPPLY TERMINAL leading to ONLY one location, that being the hot ungrounded battery post, often via a wire to where the big ungrounded battery cable atatches to the starter switch/solenoid. Then for it to properly register amps into it (charging) or amps out of it (discharging) its other LOAD TERMINAL wires to BOTH the BAT terminal on a Cutout Relay or Voltage Regulator PLUS any BAT input terminal on lights or ignition switch feeds. An ammeter is like a dead short with extreme low resistance continuity between its Supply and Load terminal if its working and MUST be wired as described above so the battery power can get to and feed hot battery voltage to lights or ignition and the gennys output (via the BAT terminal on a Cutout Relay or VR) can get to n charge the battery. The lights cant work nor can the ammeter register correct UNLESS the light switch has a hot battery voltage feed from the ammeters load terminal (or the LOAD terminal on a 4 terminal VR) and the ammeters other Supply terminal gets to the hot ungrounded battery post voltage (usually at the starter switch). If the lights BAT input terminal were wired to the ammeters supply terminal they can still work, but the ammeter wont be registering that current flow. You gotta get hot voltage to the light switches BAT input terminal (from ammeter or BAT on a 4 terminal VR) and the switch to be closed and good to feed that voltage to the lights. Use a simple test lamp to trace down where youre gettign or loosing hot voltage. John T
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