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JAW, Sure it will work any you probably wont mess things up, unless its left on high charge constantly at high RPM with no lighting loads etc. in which case you could overcharge the battery. It works since its internal Cutout Relay (one portion of a full fledged Voltage regulator) will work and you can stilllll use the light switch as the Low/High Charge manual regulation buttttt ttttt to prevent possible overcharge and to do a much better job of automatic regulation versus the old fashioned manual WHY NOT USE ALL THE FEATURES OF THE NEWER VOLTAGE REGULATOR since its already purchased n installed????? ? Heres how to wire it regardless if a 3 or 4 terminal: Its possible to convert from the relay to a VR. BAT on VR to load (NOT batery/starter) side of ammeter ARM/GEN on VR to gennys ARM post FLD on VR to Gennys Field post. On a Cutout Relay system the gennys field used to wire to the light switch. Dont use that circuit, simply remove it and instead wire the gennys Field now to the FLD terminal on the VR. (L)OAD terminal if its a 4 terminal VR (BAT FLD LOAD ARM) versus only a 3 (BAT ARM FLD) the 4th L terminal supplies hot batery voltage up to the Lights and Ignition (their BAT input terminals) which used to be fed off the ammeters Load terminal (same terminal that wires down to BAT on a VR or relay). If you have a 4 terminal VR with the extra 4 th L terminal, remove the wiring from the load side of the ammeter to lights and/or ignition switches BAT input terminal(s) and instead feed voltage up to the L BAT input terminal(s) from the VR's L terminal POLARIZE the genny of course, and if its a 3 brush adjustable 3rd brush genny n youre converting over to a full fledged VR, I would set the 3rd adjustable brush to a high charge rate. NOTE on many 4 terminal VR's the terminal off to one side or the bottom all by itself is the ARM terminal while teh 3 side by side are BAT FLD LOAD. if its only a 3 terminal VR the terminals are BAR ARM FLD The VR needs a good ground remember. Best wishes n God Bless Yall John T
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