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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall M Rained In

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steve laaveg

05-07-2007 19:09:28




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It just rained a bunch here and I jumped on my tractor to start it and water came boiling out of the exhaust manifold where the muffler attaches. I knew that the muffler was loose on the manifold but I never dreamed that much water could find its way in. What kind of damage do you think this may do and what should I do to get it back in shape? I suspect the first thing to do would be to drain the oil. Anybody had this experience before? Thank you for the help. This is a 1949 model.

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trucker40

05-08-2007 18:50:30




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 Re: Farmall M Rained In in reply to steve laaveg, 05-07-2007 19:09:28  
You might try a hardware store if you can find one,they might have a pipe threader or something that would maybe work that you could weld on a pipe.



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John M

05-08-2007 03:22:06




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 Re: Farmall M Rained In in reply to steve laaveg, 05-07-2007 19:09:28  
third party image

You need a rain cap, or at the least an empty tin can.



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Andy Motteberg

05-07-2007 22:23:34




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 Re: Farmall M Rained In in reply to steve laaveg, 05-07-2007 19:09:28  
My Dad's SMTA has a bad manifold so water always sprays out of there when we start it up, but it runs fine. A toad shot out of there once when we started it! Ever have that happen?!?!



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old

05-07-2007 19:59:13




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 Re: Farmall M Rained In in reply to steve laaveg, 05-07-2007 19:09:28  
I have an Oliver 77 that that has happened to more then once. So far all I have ever had to do wis start it up and let it dry its self out. Never had trouble with water in the oil, but I do make sure I start it up right after the rain and let it run for 30 minutes or so. My self if it where mine I would start it now even if its dark and then let it run 5 minutes or so turn it off and check the oil. If its not milky I would then start it again and let it get good and warm. If you don't it could lock up on you

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steve laaveg

05-07-2007 19:33:45




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 Re: Farmall M Rained In in reply to steve laaveg, 05-07-2007 19:09:28  
I didn't continue cranking on it to see if it would start-just cranked it for a couple seconds or so. I will check the oil pan to see if I get any water and do the other things like you suggested. Thanks for the reassurance that it should be alright. Where do you guys recommend getting a new gasket for the fuel sediment bowl. Do I have to go to a regular IH dealer or have you been able to locate them at a farm fleet store, for example. I suppose I could make one out of some cork remnant if all else fails. Thanks again!

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Janicholson

05-07-2007 19:48:11




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 Re: Farmall M Rained In in reply to steve laaveg, 05-07-2007 19:33:45  
I would pull the plugs and do as I stated tonight just to be kind to it. There is no time like early in this situation. NAPA has the gasket and screen, take your old one with. JimN



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georgeky

05-07-2007 19:19:05




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 Re: Farmall M Rained In in reply to steve laaveg, 05-07-2007 19:09:28  
If it turns over see if it will start and run. This usually doesn't hurt much if it has not been in there to long.



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Janicholson

05-07-2007 19:18:48




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 Re: Farmall M Rained In in reply to steve laaveg, 05-07-2007 19:09:28  
If it started, that blew the water out of the exhaust. If it did not, I Would (now) loosen the drain plug from the oil pan and just crack it open into a pan to see if water got into it. Probably not much. Once that is done, Pull the spark plugs and spin it over for 10 seconds. Then reinstall the plugs and start it. (be sure to keep the wires organized. Don't fret, it will be OK. Fix the Pipe, It is 2" NPT tapered pipe thread. Rent a Tap to run the threads, and put a new pipe in it about 9 to 10" long. Use silver antisieze on the threads to allow future removal. JimN

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A. Bohemian

05-08-2007 07:44:01




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 Concurrences in reply to Janicholson, 05-07-2007 19:18:48  
(1) You need a rain cap. Indoors is good to, but an M is a BIG vehicle...

(2) An oil and filter change is perscribed, by almost every manufacturer of motor vehicles world wide, as routine preventative practice any time moisture is observed in the motor oil.

At least crack the drain plug and look for water, as Jim suggests. Or just change it anyway and have done with it.

Yes, changing the oil cold is less beneficial than changing it with the engine warmed up; however, water in the oil is an EXTRAORDINARY CIRCUMSTANCE. Changing the oil and filter is cheap. Yes, the filters have gone up quite a bit lately; so have bearing kits!

After changing the oil, or at least ascertaining its integrity, start the tractor and let it reach operating temperature, keeping a close eye on the pressure gauge, of course. Warming the engine will help "cook out" excess moisture.

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steve laaveg

05-08-2007 14:15:09




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 Re: Concurrences in reply to A. Bohemian, 05-08-2007 07:44:01  
I was in a rush this morning to get to work, but before I left, I cracked the drain plug on the oil pan and I swear about a gallon of water came out and the oil was very milky. Just to make it clear, the muffler has a rain cap on it-all this water came in at the bottom of the muffler where it is supposed to screw into the exhaust manifold (it rained about 3" here in ND) Upon closer inspection the threads on the manifold look beyond repair, so I don't know where to go next. The threads are very corroded and nearly non-existent. Some work acquaintences recommended just cutting some grooves in a 2" pipe and turning it into the manifold. I went to the local rental place and they didn't have a 2" NPT die. Any ideas, guys and gals. Thanks.

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Janicholson

05-09-2007 06:21:41




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 Re: Concurrences in reply to steve laaveg, 05-08-2007 14:15:09  
I'm glad you did as I suggested. Even if the threads are looking bad, the pipe tap will still probably be a good choice. Tool stores sell them, but they are pricy (ergo the rental) finding a l=commercial plummer is also an option of choice (friendly is best, or it could cost more than the tap) get it aligned perfectly with the old threads and keep it lubricated with ATF. Turn in 1/8th turn, back off turn in a bit more, back off till the cutting edges clear the cut behind go slow, it is a one time thing and will be fine if approached with tenderness.

Replacement manifolds are available (try to get a unit cast in the US.

If threading will not work at all, and a new manifold is beyond reason, buy a ---schedule 80--- black Iron 2" NPT coupling and weld it to the top of the manifold with Nickel Rod.

JimN

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Smith1000

05-09-2007 03:50:25




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 Re: Concurrences in reply to steve laaveg, 05-08-2007 14:15:09  
I have the same problem with my M. The pipe out of the exhaust manifold wobbles and the threads are gone. It has a rain cap, but a lot of water can make its way into the engine where the pipe meets the manifold. It has a rain cap. I usually keep it in the barn, but sometimes it is out in the rain. I try to watch it closely and get it moved. I have put a tarp over it before. I need to get it fixed also. I have drained out "milky" oil before.

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