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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Sleeve installation farmall H

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Aaron B

05-20-2007 06:52:13




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Just wondering if my new sleeves should be clean and dry when I install them, or should I coat them with oil or grease or something? I have heard of a substance called sleeve retainer, but have no idea if this will be necessary. Thanks!




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Gauger

05-20-2007 09:26:44




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 Re: Sleeve installation farmall H in reply to Aaron B, 05-20-2007 06:52:13  
Didn't the new sleeves come with instructions? I've done a few and the instructions say to use diesel fuel or light oil. You can put the flange in the counterbore upside down to check the standoff dimension. The sleeve should go in 1/3 to 1/2 way by hand and then a light tap should do it. The fit should be very light press. The freeze/heat method should not be necessary if all dimensions are OK.

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El Toro

05-20-2007 14:24:19




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 Re: Sleeve installation farmall H in reply to Gauger, 05-20-2007 09:26:44  
If those sleeves don't fit tight and they happen to slide down too far, the connecting rod is going to hit the sleeve and then you're in big trouble.
Hal



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the tractor vet

05-20-2007 11:24:47




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 Re: Sleeve installation farmall H in reply to Gauger, 05-20-2007 09:26:44  
I realy hate to disagree with ya but i am as they are and i restate this a PRESS FIT. As i have seen more then my fair share of back yard sleeve instulations layen in the oil pan . Ya had best read up on propper sleeve instulation and do not believe what some say is a had fit on a DRY sleeve . There are spec's on how much force is required to PRess a give sleeve into the block and also as said before there are bore classifactions . And way tomany times one one will take a HONE and hone the heck out of a hole that may have been maked A-B or C-D and the new sleeve will fall in . Now when buying sleeves AFTER market you are only getting A-B class sleeves and if the block is Marked C-D ya got a problem .Yea the A-B sleeve will go wright in and after time it will go stright down , around the crank . Keep in mind here that i have only been building motor- engines for the last 45 years from mild to wild and by no means and expert as i am still learing . And i would venture to say that of all the people on here there are only a couple of us that have made a living working on BINDERS and know the squeeks and giggels . So the advice that i give is TRUE and correct to the best that i can give .

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the tractor vet

05-20-2007 07:55:07




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 Re: Sleeve installation farmall H in reply to Aaron B, 05-20-2007 06:52:13  
Well if ya want to get down to the nitty gritty of this sleeve instulation bit here they should BE OF A PRESS FIT either with a hyd. sleeve puller or a homemade all thread deal . One should Mic. the inside bore and the outside of the sleeve then check the flang thich ness along with the countor bore depth so that you have the correct stand out of the sleeve . If oneDRIVES a sleeve into a block you may stand a chance of putting wrinkels in it , this can also happen when Pressen in a sleeve and the new sleeve should be checked with a dial bore gauge from top to bottom all the way around and if it is not true then a ridged cylinder hone should be used to clean up , also each piston should be FITTED TO EACH HOLE by using ans inside mic. on the hole and a outside mic. on the piston you want to have your skirt to wall clearance correct and if ya want to get picky then fit the rings also.

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Janicholson

05-20-2007 07:15:41




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 Re: Sleeve installation farmall H in reply to Aaron B, 05-20-2007 06:52:13  
Clean everything to metal, including the rim groove, but do not "sand" them. Freeze the sleeves for an hour to shrink them. Warm the block with a heat lamp for an hour in each hole being assembled, and have at hand an oak or hardwood block about 2"X4"X10", and a 2# hammer. Keep the sleeve cold transporting it in a towel if a long way, then slide it into the hole. It should go in well, and be a hand push to the bottom. If it needs a tap, use the block and hammer nice and square on the top. Make sure they go in till bottomed on the rim.

If they can be removed by hand when allowed to sit and become the same temp (especially ones that went in easily to the bottom, that bore may need a larger OD sleeve. Not common. The bores were made for select fit, and have numbers stamped next to them, your sleeves will probably be great on A or B or C size bores, but get progressively looser. D bores may be a loosness issue. I would not use any liquid retainer. It does not transfer heat or allow repair easily later. JimN

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funderburk1

05-20-2007 06:56:40




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 Re: Sleeve installation farmall H in reply to Aaron B, 05-20-2007 06:52:13  
They should go in dry, I have seen them go with just hand pressure and seen them where you have to tap them down with a flat block of wood and a hammer. Sleeve retainer is a very high strength Loc-Tite.



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