1928 Farmall Regular operation

Mark

Starting a hand cranked engine isn't hard if you're careful. A couple points to start with:

First, NEVER push on the crank, always pull. Don't wrap you thumb around the crank handle, keep it next to your fingers. If the engine kicks back you want it to pull the crank out of you hand, not shove your wrist up into your elbow.

Second, before trying to start it check the timing. Leave the magneto advance in the retarded (off) position so you don't get a spark. Take out the #1 spark plug, set the impluse, bring # 1 cylinder up on compression. The impulse should trip just AFTER top dead center. If it trips before TDC, the engine will likely kick back. A little slow is better than a little fast. The timing is set by taking the two bolts out of the coupling disk & shifting one slight with respect to the other - a new set of holes will line up.

To start, set the spark advance to just off the stop position, check to make sure its in neutral and the brake is set, set the impluse, open the throttle part way, make sure the gas is turned on, set the choke.

Push in on the crank to engage the dogs (make sure the crank moves freely & doesn't stick in the engaged position). Slowly bring the engine around until it comes up on compression. The crank should be in about the 7:00 - 8:00 o'clock position.

Holding the crank as described above, pull it quickly up and through compression. You should here the impluse on the magneto click as it comes over compression. Repeat as needed.

When the engine fires, push the choke in about half way & let it warm up a bit, then open the chock the rest of the way. Advance the spark until the engine runs smooth. I prefer to have the impluse set a little bit retarded & then just advance the spark all the way once the engine is running. Reduces the possibility of the engine kicking.

Mine will usually start on the 2nd or 3rd pull, even after sitting. I'll usually open the choke about half way after the 2nd pull, but what works best will vary with engine & temperature. I don't normally have to prime mine, but if it doesn't start right away put a little gas in the priming cups (on top of the valve cover, don't put it in the oil ports), open and close the priming ports to let the fuel run into the manifold, & try again.

Finally, these engines do not have pressure lubrication to the valve train. You need to periodically squirt some oil into the ports on top of the valve cover. I give mine a couple pumps of an oilcan every time I start it. Too much is better than too little, as the excess will just run down into the crankcase.

Good luck,

Keith

THANKS!
Mark

Included my e-mail with this reply.

The two short cups with spring loaded covers are the oil ports. The taller ones with the covers that slide sideways are the priming ports. You fill the cup with gas, turn them counterclockwise to open a valve on the bottom & dump the gas into the manifold, then turn them clockwise again to close the ports. The sliding cover is just to keep dirt out of the cups.

Unless someone has put a newer magneto on it, which is entirely possible, it should have an open impulse mechanism that you have to set. There should be a little rod sticking up out of the impulse that you push toward the engine to set. If the impluse is enclosed, its a newer magneto.

Ignition timing can be varied while the engine is running by turning the cap on the end of the magneto below the distributor cap. There should be an extension on this cap with a hole in it where the rod from the advance level would connect. Lifting this extension retards the the timing, pushing it down advances timing. All the way up shorts out the magneto to keep it from starting.

By the way, the preferred method of shutting the tractor off is to close the valve on the fuel tank & let the enging run the carburetor dry. This was to minimize the amount of kerosene or distillate left in the carburetor, which would dilute the gas & make it hard to start the next time. If you're running on gasoline, it doesn't make much difference except that needle valves tend to leak & will end up dripping a whole tank of gas on the ground.

One other thing. These carburetors use a cork float which tends to get saturated & sink, thereby flooding the engine. I dipped mine in polyurethane varnish & let it dry for a week, haven't had any more trouble but can't guarantee how long it'll hold up. I've heard of people replacing the cork with a brass one out of an old Kohler small engine carburetor.

Keith