Clutch Hassle

Tied into this clutch adjustment today.

Found the locknut on the forward clutch shaft was left loose and I 'spose that adjustment screw just walked down the shaft over time with usage.

Adjusted 'er up and set the transmission brake. Seemed to cure all the ills, the thing shifts good and the brake is holding the transmission from grinding as it should. Okay fine.

Trouble came when I started to adjust that dump valve. Fought it and fought it. That darned light comes on anytime the clutch is released; doesn't matter if the TA is in the high range or the low range. Push the clutch and the light comes on. Guess this is okay as it means a drop in pressure. Right?

Anyhoo, after battling it for quite awhile, I just set the thing to move the valve when the pedal is pushed. Everything seems to work okay, but I still think I can detect a "double launch" going on in high range when starting out.

Dunno. I've got a headache. :>(

Allan

To check the transmission brake adjustment, idle the engine at 1000 - 1200 RPM in neutral. Push in the clutch pedal all the way. The gears should stop in three to five seconds. If they stop sooner it is too tight and can cause hard shifting. If it takes longer, lengthen the adjustment rod 1/2 turn at a time until you get the right adjustment.

These checks work on any tractor with a TA. Other than the transmission brake it also works on the mechanical TAs in the smaller/older tracors.

That is exactly what it was doing. I kept turning and turning and the thing never did go back out. :>)

So then to be straight with you guys, I turn the thing one more turn after the point where the light just comes on?

Allan

I back the screw almost clear out of the turnbuckle. Then, hold that clutch clear in. Start the tractor. So far, so good.

The point I'm making is this:

I slowly start screwing the adjustment bolt back in to tighten it up. The light NEVER goes out. EVER.

Screwed it clear in until I thought I was gonna twist the thing off. Could tell it was bottoming out in the clevis. The light still stays on constant.

I finally just did a "guess-ti-mate". Book says it's gotta move that valve at least 3/8". I dunno.

Could they have changed that valve in the later years on the 66 series? In order for the light to go out, it's gotta have pressure. Never does with the clutch held in.???

Allan

Took the picture before I started on that rascal.

Had the wife in the cab watching the light; never went out as I turned the bolt from below.

So, then I tried it by myself and held the clutch down with a piece of 2X4. Turned a couple of turns and then would check, turned a couple of more turns and then would recheck. Never, ever saw that light go out all the way down the adjustment bolt.

Yeah, I was on the correct bolt.

Allan

First thing this morning when I opened the cab door, I had about 3" of free travel; no wonder the darned thing would grind going into gear. So, I yanked that battery and did all the adjusting just like ya told me. I think it is "perfect" now.

However, I just asked the wife again if she ever saw that light go out..... ..... ..... ..... ..... she says, "Go out? It never came on".

That's when she left and I started working on it by myself and realized I hadn't unscrewed the thing far enough to begin with.

I'm gonna tackle it again tomorrow. Think she and I had our wires crossed on this deal.

Thanks for your help,

Allan