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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Stripped Manifold

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midwest_mta

06-14-2007 09:04:38




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I have an MTA that I haven't had long. I'm starting to put together a list of things I need to do on it. I noticed that the threads for the exhaust pipe in the manifold are nearly stripped so an exhast pipe won't tighten up very well. Do you have any good ideas to mend that. On the same note, what are good sources for good Farmall parts?




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jonnnny2006

06-14-2007 17:26:31




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to midwest_mta, 06-14-2007 09:04:38  
I had a pro welder weld a few up in the past.... I have never ever had one come unwelded. the guy guarntees iy. he will reweld if needed for free. he has only seen one come back in 7 years.



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BF8690

06-14-2007 14:46:59




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to midwest_mta, 06-14-2007 09:04:38  
I got a brand new manifold on ebay for $109 + shipping.



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Andy Martin

06-14-2007 12:59:26




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to midwest_mta, 06-14-2007 09:04:38  
Sometimes a new pipe will help clean out the threads.

If all else fails, weld the pipe in if the manifold is otherwise ok. I have done this several times with excellent success. Preheat is important. Grind the top of the manifold around the hole bright. Then grind the pipe where it will be welded. Then screw in the pipe as good as it will go and start the tractor. When the manifold is good and hot weld it out with ni-rod. With the tractor rinning if you're in a hurry (put a board in place to block the fan) or kill the tractor, weld, then start it back up until the weld cools. I've not had one fail.

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superih

06-14-2007 12:44:27




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to midwest_mta, 06-14-2007 09:04:38  
Sometimes the threads appear wore off, when in fact they are loaded with carbon/rust from the old pipe rattling around in the manifold. Remove the manifold from the tractor and sandblast the threads really well, sometimes they become quite useful again.



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neblinc

06-14-2007 11:15:22




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to midwest_mta, 06-14-2007 09:04:38  
Hey Vet, what is a cow magnet if I may ask.



Randy



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nballen

06-14-2007 12:38:27




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to neblinc, 06-14-2007 11:15:22  
Cattle will nose around and chew on metal occasionally. Also, back in the days of wire-tie balers, they would / could ingest wire with the hay. If the metal penetrates the stomach wall, the cow will get an infection in the body (peritoneal) cavity, which is often fatal; always expensive.

As Tractor Vet indicated, the purpose of the magnet is to attract and hold any metal, preventing the wire / nail / staple / whatever from moving around with the feed and damaging the stomach.

Nathaniel

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the tractor vet

06-14-2007 11:53:52




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to neblinc, 06-14-2007 11:15:22  
It's a magnit that ya shove down a cows throat to collect any metal that they may eat and the metal sticks to the magnit and it is suppose to not hurt the cow .



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Janicholson

06-14-2007 09:41:39




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to midwest_mta, 06-14-2007 09:04:38  
Added Warning!! Place good solid plugs of rags into the exhaust manifold to catch chips. Then vacuum them out and remove the rags gently. Grief in cylinders happens! JimN



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the tractor vet

06-14-2007 10:58:16




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to Janicholson, 06-14-2007 09:41:39  
Grease tap first then chips stick to grease , clean often or place cow magnit down in and chips go to magnit



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the tractor vet

06-14-2007 09:31:50




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to midwest_mta, 06-14-2007 09:04:38  
Well if it is not tobad then retap and install a new pipe . I do not like welding them in as they never stay welded . Or replace the manifold and install a new pipe



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Janicholson

06-14-2007 09:31:46




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 Re: Stripped Manifold in reply to midwest_mta, 06-14-2007 09:04:38  
The threads are 2" NPT tapered pipe threads. The tap for these is pricy, so I (If I didn't have access to one) would rent one, or find a friendly plummer. Clean the max rust out of the existing threads with a small diameter wire wheel to assure the tap follows existing threads. I would use a good iron compatible cutting fluid with some sulfur content to ease the removal of rust in the thread bottoms Tap to at least three quarters of the tap depth, then check the fit (with silver antisieze on it) tap deeper if needed. JimN

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