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Bob M need your help!

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Paul Shuler

08-07-2002 19:59:35




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Fired up the the Super C today, started right off. But no charging. Here is what I got.12v,GM alt., distributor set up. It has a key switch with 3 positions on it, middle being off and to the right to run. It also has a fuse in just under the key switch. When I turn the key to the right the dummy light comes on. When the tractor starts the light stays on even after reving up to full throttle.Had to switch the wires on the amp gauge but they seem to work correct now, it deflects to the left a little when I turn the key on.Had the alt checked before I started the restoration and at that time it checked out OK. The only thing I have done to it was paint it red and I masked off the plug in and stud for the wire connections.Tried to follow your diagram but mine has the key switch and fuse that are little different from the diagram. The fuse holder has two 10ga wires comeing off it.This tractor had after market gauges on it that would light up and had all kinds of extra wires running around inside the box. To make a long story longer anyway now no charge, dummy light stays on and I have no power to my lights, but tractor starts and run.Bob I'm sorry this such a confussing post. I have to do the dentist Thing tommorow but if you need more info I can check it out a little better on Friday

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Bob M

08-08-2002 05:43:55




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 Re: Bob M need your help! in reply to Paul Shuler, 08-07-2002 19:59:35  
Hey Paul - Possible causes for your "no charge" problem:

1 - Check the obvious first: Wiring somehow got messed up.

2 - Make sure the drive belt tension is OK. (Slipping belt will spin the alternator but not fast enough to turn on the internal regulator and start charging)

If it still doesn't charge...

3 - The internal regulator has failed. To test, find the 1/4" dia hole in the back of the alternator with a small metal tab about 1/4" inside the hole. The tab is the regulator bypass. With the motor running at 1/2 throttle or faster, take a small screwdriver and CAREFULLY touch it to the metal tab, then ground the screwdriver shank against the side of the hole. If the dummy light goes out and the alternator now charges, the problem is the regulator. A new regulator costs about $10 and can easily be replaced without removing the alternator from the tractor.

4 - If the above doesn't work, possibly some paint got on the slip rings, or else there's a major electrical problem (broken brush, open output diodes or open circuit in a field or stator winding). Time for a to visit an alternator shop, or simply replace the alternator with a good one.

Hope this helps and good luck! ...Bob

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Bill Evans

07-19-2004 08:06:53




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 Re: Re: Bob M need your help! in reply to Bob M, 08-08-2002 05:43:55  
Seems like Bob M is the go-to guy on Cub electrical problems. I have one. My Cub had been running well, then all of a sudden, problems. It starts well and runs for about 5 minutes then shuts off. I've checked the fuel system and think that's ok so now think it could be electrical. I can't find a voltage regulator and have an alternator so will check on the 1/4 hole for a voltage regulator in the alternator. I still need help with the wiring though. Also how would I know whether it is a positive or negative ground. Any help would be appreciated

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