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Tommy - Presuming your SWD9 has disc brakes, it's not difficult to get them working like new. Possible problems/fixes: 1 - Adjustment. If you are lucky you may simply need to take up the adjustment at each brake to bring the pedals up. 2 - Worn disks. Friction disks are worn out if the "spokes" (radial grooves) molded in the friction material are faint or have disappeared. Fix is to simply replace with new friction disks. Note 2 discs are required for each brake. A full set of disks for a Super M runs about $100 - SWD9 disks are probably a little more. 3 - Dirty actuating disk and brake shaft splines. Disassemble the actuating disk assemblies and thoroughly clean the balls and ball ramp grooves. When reassembling apply a light dusting of graphite to the balls. Wire brush the brake shaft splines to clean them up. Then give the splines a light coat of grease (just a film is enough) before putting the brakes back together. Also clean and lightly grease the machined surfaces on the actuating disc dogs and the mating machined surfaces on the bosses inside the brake covers where the dogs bear. 4 - Oil contamination. Gear oil from the transmission will leak out and contaminate the brakes if the brake shaft seals are worn. Replacing the seals is straightforward - presuming SWD9 brakes are similar to the Super M, the seal retainer is easily removed without going inside the transmission. Seals are standard - your local bearing house can cross the IHC part number on the seal and supply an equivalent for about $10 each. If you find oil contamination, THOROUGHLY degrease all the brake parts before reassembly. Also replace the friction disks. They will have soaked up oil and it's impossible to remove all traces of oil from the disks. 5 - Metal braking surfaces glazed. This can be removed from the center disk, the inside plate and inside the cover by lightly sanding. I've found 1/4 sheet palm sander works nice for this. Often is a combination of several the problems above that result in poor brake action. Regarding engine shutdown, good practice is to make sure the gas supply to the carb is closed, then switch the engine back to gas mode and let it run until the carb runs dry and the engine stops. Then immediately throw the starting lever back to "diesel" mode put the starting valves onto their seats. Book says this will help prevent warping of the starting valves while they cool down. Good luck!
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