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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Bearings for Farmall MD belt pulley

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Novice

07-27-2003 14:11:50




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I recently purchased a Farmall MD that has rough brearings (great rolling sound)in the belt pulley and a leaky seal. It looks like there are 2 shafts and 4 bearings and a seal. Has anyone rebuilt one of these belt pulleys that could tell me about parts (bearing) availability and any special tips or advice??--Novice




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Keith F

07-28-2003 14:08:55




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 Re: Bearings for Farmall MD belt pulley in reply to Novice, 07-27-2003 14:11:50  
I just pulled apart the one on my Super M. I don't know if there is any difference between an M and Super M belt pulley. The two O-rings on mine had swelled. I got two new ones and the dimensions are 4 1/8 OD. x 3 7/8 ID. x 1/8 dia. thick for one and 4 3/4 OD. x 4 1/2 ID. x 1/8 dia. thick for the other. The seal on the output shaft was a 357203R1 which is the current 21098 Chicago Rawhide seal. My bearings were okay and I didn't get their number.

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Wayne Swenson

07-27-2003 21:08:47




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 Re: Bearings for Farmall MD belt pulley in reply to Novice, 07-27-2003 14:11:50  
I recently posted a complete proceedure for overhaul of the pulley assembly. If it isn't in the archives the message may still be in one of the current pages.
There are 3 ball bearings & 1 bronze bushing.



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Wayne Swenson

07-27-2003 21:14:04




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 Re: Re: Bearings for Farmall MD belt pulley in reply to Wayne Swenson, 07-27-2003 21:08:47  
Here is the message posted earlier:

My 2 sons & I just re-did 2 gearcases for their belt pulleys on their "H"s".
Remove three capscrews under the pulley mounting flange and the shaft, spacers, & bevel gear will all slide out with a bit of assistance.
Remove the cap screw on the end of the shaft and all the parts can be pulled off.
I was able to obtain replacement bearings at no cost by going to an electric motor rebuilding shop. If my memory is corect you need a 6210 & 6208 bearing for the drive shaft. Remove any shields so the bearing will now lube itself from the transmission oil. Thoroughly clean all old grease residue before installing the used bearing. Factory bearings run $50 or so for the big one so it can be an expensive affair to replace them. NAPA wanted $45 for the 6210 size.
I have a Case/IH dealer in town (Fergus Falls, MN) so otained the new seal, felt dust washer, and mounting gasket from them at a very reasonable cost.
Carefully clean the metal spacers and put a VERY light coating of silicone on them just before assembly. Don't mix up the cap screws from the drive gear cover with the shaft cover; they are longer (don't ask how I found out) and will not compress the spacers under the pulley flange.
On the drive gear shaft,just remove the 3 cap screws and pull the unit out. Remove 2 fine threaded cap screws & take the bevel gear & bearing off. It is a 6206 size. Watch out for the shift lever plunger & spring as they will jump out if the lever is moved too far. And this will happen as you clean the gearcase. If you need to replace the steel plug in the back of the gearcase, IH doesn't have it any more. Go to an automotive parts rebuilder and get a 1 3/16" soft plug; it can be deeper (longer) than original. Put the spring & plunger back in place, set the large drive gear on the shift lever. Clean & lightly silicone the spacers and reassemble. The 2 long bolts had copper washers but a dab of silicone will work. Be sure to put them in place in the gearcase BEFORE you slip it into place on the tractor. They won't go in later unless you remove the gas tank or pull the gearcase back out. (I know, experience is a great teacher)
It goes without saying to carefully scrape all old gasket residue off before reassembly. Careful use of a 10" or 12" mill file will do wonders. Use it as a draw file ( sideways motion, not forward & back) to locate any high spots on the metal casting also.
I now have 2 belt pulley gearcases that work just like new at a very minimal cost. Sorry for the long post, I was a Vocational Engines instructor in my past life and just can't quit teaching!!
Good luck.

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novice

08-22-2003 01:22:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Bearings for Farmall MD belt pulley in reply to Wayne Swenson, 07-27-2003 21:14:04  
Thanks Wayne, very helpfull. I have the parts manual and will get to this. Have printed out your post to help. Having the bearing numbers helps.



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Haas

07-27-2003 16:33:13




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 Re: Bearings for Farmall MD belt pulley in reply to Novice, 07-27-2003 14:11:50  
The belt pulley on the M and the MD will be the same. You need to get yourself a parts catalog and you can see exactly what you need. It's fairly easy to the pulley shaft out. You just take the three bolts on the flange loose and the shaft two bearings, gear and seal all come out with the flange. You'll need a bearing press to get the bearings and gear off the shaft. I had mine out a couple years ago and decided only to replace one bearing. Don't do that shortcut. I'm going to have to take mine out again. These bearings go bad because of neglect. Water from condensation accumulates in the belt pulley oil sump (which is supplied from the transmission). The oil overflows back to the transmission, but there is a sump up at the pulley with no drain. If you never run the pulley the water eventually corrodes and ruins the bearings. Whenever the transmission oil is changed be sure to loosen the pulley flange bolts and pull out the flange to let the oil (and water) drain out. Then put a quart of so of transmission oil back in through the fill hole on top of the pulley housing.

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novice

07-27-2003 17:16:28




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 Re: Re: Bearings for Farmall MD belt pulley in reply to Haas, 07-27-2003 16:33:13  
Thanks Haas. I have a parts book. It sounds like the bearings and seal were easy to source and that the unit is easy to get apart. I guess a machine shop could press off the old and on the new bearings. Thanks for the oil and condensation discussion. This forum is very helpfull and a quick link to those with experience/advice.



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