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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Ok going to work some on my 300 now.

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Kelly C

07-30-2003 06:38:27




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I would like to pull the pistons. I have the head off and the oil pan removed. Pistons 2 and 3 are stuck (still).
Whats the best way to remove the pistons with out removing the crank? I have never tried it before and am worried about scratching the bearing area on the crank wile messing with the pistons.
Looking for some sage advise.




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Van

07-30-2003 21:20:03




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 Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 06:38:27  
Sure fire stuck engine formula With the head still installed and the rods still on the crank pour your favorite penetrating oil mixture in all spark plug holes. Wait overnight and with the valve cover removed, ensure which piston is near the top of the stroke with the valves closed on that cylinder (but not at the very top of the stroke) 2. Fill that piston to the top of the plug hole with hydro fluid, Install KD spark plug air hold adapter with the correct QD installed. 3. Attatch your "best friend" 10 K porta-power and put the pressure on.
Engine will move unless the piston you are pushing has a hole burned in it or is cracked, if so move to another hole. Bucks down guys can even use another running tractors hydrualics if no porta power is available. be careful with this however. I have unstuck my share by beating wood around, let the hydro power do the work for you, makes raising cultivators more fun too!


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Larry806

07-30-2003 20:13:04




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 Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 06:38:27  
I've read about putting a couple inches of diesel in the cyl & lighting it do that 2 or 3 times & they say it will come right out I've never tried it yet



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Wayne Swenson

07-30-2003 18:36:47




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 Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 06:38:27  
Laws of thermodynamics might help you out.
Replace the block drain & plug the lower water pump pipe. Pour boiling water (2 gallons?) into the engine block water jacket. This will heat & expand the cylinder sleeve. Put some ice on top of the piston to shrink it.
The expansion/contraction may help shock the rust and with some judicious (careful) usage of a sledge hammer the piston may start to move.
I had 1 stuck piston in an "M" and it finally came out in pieces. That was after all the other techniques had been used!!
Patience is the key.
Good luck.

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RAS

07-30-2003 12:52:28




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 Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 06:38:27  
I would fill the top of the cylinders with diesel and let set for a few days. Remove the rod caps and use a 2x4 cut in half, tap them up and down until the brake free.



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TP from Central PA

07-30-2003 09:58:04




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 Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 06:38:27  
Kelly, I take it your putting in a new piston and sleeve kit? Right? I would take them out in pieces unless they were M&W or Firecraters!



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Kelly C

07-30-2003 10:38:18




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 Re: Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to TP from Central PA, 07-30-2003 09:58:04  
third party image

Not sure what kind these are. What do you mean in pieces? Bust them up in the cylinder?



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rustyfarmall

07-30-2003 11:13:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 10:38:18  
Don't know what those are, but I think I would try to save them. Even if you are not going to reuse them, someone might want them.



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Kelly C

07-30-2003 12:09:29




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 no in reply to rustyfarmall, 07-30-2003 11:13:11  
Acctually the sleeves are not that bad ether.
If I could get it unstuck I think there is some life still in em.



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rustyfarmall

07-30-2003 13:03:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ok going to work some on my 30 in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 12:09:29  
Be patient and don't get too violent with it, you just might be able to save all of it. It's really amazing how well those sleeves and pistons will clean up.



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Kelly C

07-30-2003 17:51:52




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ok going to work some on m in reply to rustyfarmall, 07-30-2003 13:03:38  
I messed with it for a couple of hrs tonight. I got the #3 cylinder to free up!!!!
#2 is still stuck tight. I put a hydralic jack under the enigine and pushed up on the #2 piston and all that did was jack the front of the tractor up. I also tapped with a block of wood and a hammer from the top. No go on #2.
Kind of frustrating. I have had it soaking in PB blaster since April.
Right now I have a bottle jack rigged with a chain pushing on a block of wood from the top. I also have some sea foam in the cylinder.
See how that does.

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TP from Central PA

07-30-2003 19:00:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ok going to work some in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 17:51:52  
Kelly, they look like Firecraters in the picture..... Don't want to wreck them! If they were regular flat tops I would beat them out(Any way possible)..... Sleeve and piston kits aren't that expensive, BUT those IH Firecraters will work very nice if you can save them!(Speaking from experience ;-P)



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26Red

07-30-2003 11:08:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 10:38:18  
Those don't look too bad. All four pistons on my 300 were stuck with lots of rust. I pulled the engine from the tractor and removed the crankshaft. I used a 4x4 wood post with a sledge hammer to drive out the pistions... I was surprised how easily it came apart, once the crankshaft was removed. Good luck and keep us posted!



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rustyfarmall

07-30-2003 06:53:11




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 Re: Ok going to work some on my 300 now. in reply to Kelly C, 07-30-2003 06:38:27  
Rotate the crank so it's out of the way as much as possible, then use a long piece of wood, oak or hickory if you have some, pine won't stand up to very much hammering, but will work if you have several pieces of it. Even better would be a nice length of brass, but that is hard to come by. Have fun!



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