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Bob - That troubleshooting guide is for a regulator-equipped system. If your "regulator" has no FLD terminal, it's actually a cutout. Troubleshooting a cutout is a bit different... here's what I'd suggest: With the motor stopped, connect a jumper wire from the generator F terminal to a GOOD ground - the grounded battery post is best. Now run the motor at ½ throttle or faster, and with an assistant watching the ammeter connect another jumper between the BAT and GEN terminals at the cutout. If the generator is good, the ammeter will show a decent level of charge (+10 amps or so). It also means the cutout is either bad or is not properly grounded as Haas suggests. However if you get nothing or a discharge indication when you make the connection, the generator is bad. If the generator tests OK, then the problem has gotta be in the charging system F circuit. If you have an ohmmeter you can test it like this: Remove the wire from the generator F terminal. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the disconnected F wire and the other to a GOOD ground. With the headlight switch in the L (low charge) position, the ohmmeter should read around 2 or 3 ohms . In the other three positions (H, D and B) the meter should read close to 0 ohms. If the readings are higher (or infinity) either the switch is bad or the switch is not grounded, again as Hass suggests. If it turns out the problem is the light switch and you don't want to mess with it, you can simply permanently ground the generator F terminal. This set the generator to "high" charge full time. Unless you the tractor for hours on end, it will work fine this way. Just check the battery water level occasionally and refill if it gets low. Hope this helps!
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