6 TO 12 VOLT H

In other words, you're going to have to fiddle with the 6V regulator to get the 8 to charge. Or, fiddle with a 12V regulator in the other direction. Meantime the lights and points will wear faster, as they're expecting 6V. While you're at it, find a dropping resistor for your 12V charger if you ever have to charge the 8 from your charger.

Using Hugh's logic, 0 or 00 gauge welding cables and connectors are real cheap compared to any of the other possible fixes.

The H generator will do 14 or more volts unregulated. You simply need to change the regulator to make it work at 12. To Hugh's point, the stock generator won't go much north of 20 amps (thus the 20 +/- on the ammeter). Even small, cheap alternators will produce 45 amps - lots more extra power to charge the battery, even when the lights are on all the time. If you have a coil/distributor ignition, and are going to 12V; you'll need a dropping resistor to keep the feed to the existing coil at 6V.

If you're hot to rebuild something, rebuild that old starter motor. Easily turning bearings and good brushes make it spin lots easier; meaning the 6V system can turn the engine as fast as any 12V conversion. The fat cables and clean connections need to be there, like James says; but the crux of any starting system is the starter motor - so concentrate on it.

As for the low buck horsepower: that's the holy grail of every hotrodder. Talk to most of 'em and you might hear that the biggest bang for the buck is a nitrous oxide bottle. You basically double the percentage of oxygen in the air -- result is bigger explosions. Downside is rapid heat increases in the head. Short of that, the cheap way to help any engine is to make it easier to inhale cold, clean air and exhale the burnt gas. All depends on how original you want to keep it, what and where you intend to use the torque or horsepower - and your taste for cubic dollars.

Sorry I didn't make myself clear. I take it as an article of faith than you always start with the cheapest fixes - and only failing those fixes do you proceed to bigger buck endeavors.

Actually, I did a cheap and dirty rebuilt on my H starter myself. Replaced the brushes, which are about a buck each, then clean and re-greased the bearings. Measured the amps required to turn it with no load before and after -- and it had dropped by about half. The really odd ball thing I noticed before the whole process was that getting a complete rebuild with a new Bendix at most places is only 30 bucks more than the price of a self installed Bendix gear. Convinced me to take the low bucks option and do it myself.

I will go along with changing to alternator. I have 3 Farmalls with alternators and the 6 volt has been the most sucessful. The new 6 volt battery and alternator were installed almost 11 years ago and are still going strong. I live in Canada and on those cold mornings my Super A with 6 volt will start when others don't. The others being a 130 and 140. To me the alternator is just a less expensive and better charging system.

Yes you do have to change to negative ground. Another thing I do is put a push button type switch on dash for exciting alternator. The reason for the push button switch is you just a shot of current just after tractor starts, but you also can't forget and leave that switch on as it will drain battery when tractor is not in use. The excite switch is quite easy as when you install alternator you have an extra wire in harness.