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Out Back Dave
09-28-2003 22:35:08
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Hooray!!,
This ole 29 McCormick Deering 22-36 finally gave in. Today I finally got the last stuck valve FREE. Got it to move a fraction, then return a bit on it's own, and rotate 360*. Then I removed the spring and retainers. Took a 1" piece of hose and clamped it around the guide to form a pond of cleaner around the stem. Then chucked the stem in a 1/2" drill. In just a few revolutions it turned freely. I worked it up and down for a while, but couldn't get it to return all the way. It had a strange feel at the top... not the solid set of a rust collar against the guide. For grins, I pulled the rope out of the cylinder, and discovered a loop of rope had been trapped between the valve and seat. Rope removed, it came completely to seat. Holding valve closed with a lever, I reinserted rope and held the valve in place from within. Dressed off a couple of small burrs created by initial slipage of drill chuck, reinstalled spring and keepers, and gave her a whirll or two. Fairly good compression for all considered. Buttoned it back up and gave it a tow around the yard. It actually tried to run for about ten seconds. We dinked around with carburetion for a while, and then pulled it back to the shop. Checked mag timing and points, and found all to be where I think they should be. Pulled it around again, but never got another snort out of her. Back to the shop, I pulled the plugs and found they were completely fouled with rust fragments from within and soaked with oil I had used for top lube. I don't know how many times I'll have to pull and clean the plugs to get it to stop fouling, but it looks as though it will run eventually. After that, I'll take on the carb adjustment. It leaks a little, but not too bad. Just hope I'll not have to remove it and dink with the float valve. The idle mixture needle on the bottom is tight enough to make it difficult to tell when it's fully seated to make initial adjustment... but then, "what's new". I ran out of time today, but will give it a try tomorrow. One question befor I go. My throttle handle has been disconnected (the rod and spark control are rusted tightly together), and a flat saw toothed control rod has been attached to the governer control arm. I assume this is how they control the engine speed? Thru the governer throttle rod linkage? Has this been done so the tractor would run in belt service? Is it OK to run it this way, or should I try to get the hand throttle reattached? The external throttle linkage at the right angle bend from the governer is missing, but I think I could manufacture something. Sorry for the long winded post, but a lot of questions keep popping up.
Thanks to all your help, we're getting close!
Dave in WA
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