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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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International 240 Utility

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Denver Davis

10-21-2003 20:17:43




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I just bought a 1960 IH 240 Utility, back hoe/loader. When I went and looked at it, it ran fine. The only thing wrong with it was the hydraulic pump is leaking severely, looks like a seal, and it lacked a lot of TLC. The guy had been using it at a job site when the seal went out and that is where it is still setting. I went to get it a few days later and it would not start. He at some point had taken the hood off of it due to the fact it was hard to get to the engine with the frame for the loader in the way, etc. It had gotten wet. The distributor cap had cracked. I replaced it, along with the rotor button and plug wires. The points looked good. Still would not run but was getting fire to plugs. The oil-bath was full of water because the vent cap was missing so I removed it and took the carburetor off, cleaned and blew it out. It started, ran a little while, then quit and would not restart. I went back this evening and tried to start it and it would not hit. I replaced the plugs and it took right off. Ran maybe 5-10 minutes, quit, and would not restart. Still getting fire to the plugs outside of the cylinders. This made my fifth trip (55 miles one way) and I still don’t have it home. If I don’t get it home soon, my wife is going to start thinking I got a girl friend somewhere using this as an excuse.

I pulled the coil and brought it home with me. I have been told I can get it tested. NAPA has a new one for $46 but won’t take it back if that is not the problem.

Is there a way I can test the coil myself?

In reviewing some of the forum archives on the 240, I found one that mentioned the coil being wired backwards, thus causing the plugs to fire backwards. Though it ran fine when I went to look at it, could this be the problem? It looks like it was wired backwards but I thought this might be due to it being a positive ground 6V system. The “battery” lead went to the distributor and the “distributor” lead went to the switch.

Another thing I noticed odd was the old plugs, and the new ones for as long as it ran this evening, carboned over with black soot????

I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

Thx, Denver

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Bill Ramsey

10-22-2003 06:26:28




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 Re: International 240 Utility in reply to Denver Davis, 10-21-2003 20:17:43  
Sounds to me like you have water in fuel tank had that problem yesterday. check your gas for water. LOL Bill



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Denver Davis

10-22-2003 18:57:57




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 Re: Re: International 240 Utility in reply to Bill Ramsey, 10-22-2003 06:26:28  
Though I am still concerned about the coil, it is leaning toward a fuel problem. Think I will make another trip tomorrow evening and drain and clean the fuel tank and fuel bowl.

The plugs carboning up with black soot don't make sense. It seems to me that would not be caused by a firing problem, but by bad fuel or water. When I opened the drain on the carb fuel ran freely with no indication of water. When I pulled the carb there was no water in it.

The coil also has me stumped. Another forum indicated that there should only be one way to hook up a coil, regardless of 6V, 12V, or positive ground. The (+) should come from the switch and the (-) go to the distributor. This coil is marked (bat.) and (dist.), with the (bat.) going to the distributor and the (dist.) coming from the switch. This sounds backwards to me, but it ran fine that way when I went to look at it the first time. I tried reversing it the other night and it did not make a difference, but if that would have an effect, the damage may already be done.

Does anyone know of a way to test the coil with an ohmmeter, say for grounds, shorts or opens?

Again, Thanks for your input.

Denver

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ny bill o

10-22-2003 02:48:24




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 Re: International 240 Utility in reply to Denver Davis, 10-21-2003 20:17:43  
you need fuel, air and spark to get it to run. sounds like you have spark. air shouldn't be a problem- take the air cleaner hose off the carb if you need to be sure. that leaves gas, either the carburetor or fuel flow.
don't know if it applies, but i just had a problem with my 656, it would idle fine but couldn't get out of its own way when throttled up. i started to take the carb off, but first i checked the flow of gas out of the sediment bowl and it seemed slow, and i noticed about 1/3 of the gasket on the gas cap was missing. i unscrewed the bowl base from the gas tank and found the outlet full of pieces of the gasket. blew it out and it runs like new. hth, bill

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dick

10-21-2003 21:10:06




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 Re: International 240 Utility in reply to Denver Davis, 10-21-2003 20:17:43  
From your description, the coil may be the problem, and possibly the condensor (often overlooked), but it definitely sounds as though you're running really rich. I suspect your coil is probably OK based upon you being able to get spark, but still not being able to get it to start. I wouldn't worry about it possibly being wired backwards.

Not sure on your 240U, but the main jet screw on the carb. on most of that era tractor was at its bottom front. While you've got it running, try screwing it in until the engine starts to miss, then back out maybe half a turn.

Another thing to check is fuel flow to the carb. Should get a good flow where the line attaches to the carb. Also, there is probably an inline filter which is part of the inlet to the carb which may be plugged. Another thing to check is whether the vent on the gas tank is plugged, occasionally people have problems like you're describing from pulling a vacuum on the tank.

Good luck.

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