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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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3 part ignition/starter question

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farmallsc

11-30-2003 11:13:59




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1. i have a 12V system, they only seem to offer 6V starters on this site so where do i get a starter? wont i fry a 6V starter on a 12V system?

2.i dont have a starting switch control rod, i have a key switch where the ignition switch button is, and a small red light where the fuse housing is, so has anyone ever heard of this?

3. whats the difference between a starter and a starter assembly? if my starter is dead so which do i need? if this doesnt make sense ill repost and try to make it clear thank you

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Rebuilder

11-30-2003 12:04:24




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 Re: 3 part ignition/starter question in reply to farmallsc, 11-30-2003 11:13:59  
Farmallsc: Is the sc the tractor starter you are talking about? If so I have had no problems with customers changing 6v to 12volt. The starter should work just fine as long as you keep a good charge in the battery. This helps give a quick start. If you sit there and crank for awhile you will melt the solder out of the coil/stud connection. On the smaller I.H. motors it does not take much cranking power. I don't see 12volt starters until you get up to the 300/400 series Farmalls. Bigger motor so 12/coil is more critical to handle the amps.

As far as not having a pull switch I see that as a plus unless you want to look original. THe pull swicthes I feel are a weak point as they arc every time you start the tractor and in short time the button stud has to be replaced. So a bolt on stud(threaded stud coming out of the starter) has fewer problems.

Ways you can check starter are to remove and while it it still wired up hit the switch. Make sure it turns freely. If it turns only in certain positions the amrature is shorted out. I f there is quite a bit of greasy oily residue on and around the coils rebuild the starte I have had Bad luck trying to clean the residue off and getting the starter to work. The oil works into the coil and eventually shorts out the windings. For this reason 80% of the starters I rebuild have new coils in. If when you hit the switch the brushes on the armature are sparking execsively, you should clean the copper on the amrature with emery cloth. If you still have problems make sure your electrical conections are good. I've had many an Irate customer want a warranty only to find out it was not the starter, just poor grounding or loose/corroded wires. good luck.

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Dan

11-30-2003 11:30:23




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 Re: 3 part ignition/starter question in reply to farmallsc, 11-30-2003 11:13:59  
1. You won't fry the starter unless you crank on it for an extended period of time. It will spin faster and some people say the bendex will go quicker. I have had good luck with my SMTA converted to 12 volts and no problem with bendex.

2. You probably have a solenoid to actuate starter. I changed my SMTA over to have a solenoid instead of the starter button on top of the starter. I have just a push button and the old IH cutoff button. I would guess the small red light is an indicator light for the alternator. You have to use and indicator light, a reisister or diode in one lalternator lead or the tractor won't shut down. Does it light up when you turnkey on but go off when you start tractor?
3. I think the differnece is in terminology. If you have starter problems it is generally easier to get yours rebuilt than to find another assembly. I tried to get a bebuilt for mine at NAPA and others and even their supplier didn't list the starter number. If your starter is "dead" it could be a number of things. First to check is battery cables that they are tight, free from corrosion and of adequate size. Also check battery to be sure it is charged and check to make sure starter is not stuck in ring gear. Post back on how it is "dead" and what model tractor and we can help ya through the diagnostics

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farmallsc

11-30-2003 11:40:55




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 Re: Re: 3 part ignition/starter question in reply to Dan, 11-30-2003 11:30:23  
its a super C, i havent been able to get it started its sat for 17 years, well its been disconnected and i took the battery out because its dead, i took one clamp of my charger on the run setting and put the negative on the corresponding post and i touched the other post with the other clamp i didnt close it i brushed it. but its a 51 super c



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