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6 volt cub

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jeff b

12-06-2003 17:54:02




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i have a 1953 cub with a 6 volt system. i would like to know if i can change over to a 12 volt system ? i checked the starter motor and it was fine, put in a new battery this year, and it still won't start in the cold.




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JB

12-07-2003 19:15:18




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 Re: 6 volt cub in reply to jeff b , 12-06-2003 17:54:02  
I'm with the folks recommending new cables, or even just cleaning all your contacts, especially where the cable attaches to the frame. A small resistance turns into a big voltage drop when you put the current through it required for cranking the engine. The advantage of 12V is that you need less current for cranking (half as much!) and the resistance does not have as significant an effect. But you can fix it just by carefully cleaning all connections! My cub starts at 10 below without trouble, and my battery is over ten years old.

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JB

12-07-2003 19:12:17




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 Re: 6 volt cub in reply to jeff b , 12-06-2003 17:54:02  
I'm with the folks recommending new cables, or even just cleaning all your contacts, especially where the cable attaches to the frame. A small resistance turns into a big voltage drop when you put the current through it required for cranking the engine. The advantage of 12V is that you need less current for cranking (half as much!) and the resistance does not have as significant an effect. But you can fix it just by carefully cleaning all connections! My cub starts at 10 below without trouble, and my battery is over ten years old.

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Dave BN

12-07-2003 04:26:10




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 Re: 6 volt cub in reply to jeff b , 12-06-2003 17:54:02  
Heavy (6V) cables made all the difference on my BN. Try that first. Dave.



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Kurow

12-08-2003 14:59:37




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 Re: Re: 6 volt cub in reply to Dave BN, 12-07-2003 04:26:10  
Are you saying there is specific 6V cable. I am having starting problems on my AV but it would be fair to say i just used some old cable in the workshop! New battery & serviced starter and it only manages a click!



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Steve - IN

12-06-2003 18:21:01




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 Re: 6 volt cub in reply to jeff b , 12-06-2003 17:54:02  
jeff,
I've got a 6 volt H which turns over easily when it's 0 outside. I also have a good battery and starter, and an H has more to turn than a Cub. The difference is I installed new 00 gauge welding cable, new connectors and grounded the battery directly to a bare metal base I formed on the starter mount.

If you try the big cable route first, it might make a world of difference, and you could save some bucks compared to the new regulator, light bulbs, dropping resistor required for a 12 volt conversion. If not, you can still use those big cables with 12 volts.

Another thought is that a 12 volt system won't do any better if your charging system isn't working well. Have you check the battey to see if it's getting a good, consistent charge? Another note is that it helps to switch to 10w-30 or 20w-40 in the winter instead of leaving the summertime 30 or 40 weight in the crankcase.

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Heath

12-06-2003 18:16:19




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 Re: 6 volt cub in reply to jeff b , 12-06-2003 17:54:02  
You can convert it to 12v and it will start better. One thing you can try is to put the trasmission in neutral and take you foot off of the clutch which allows the engine to turn over a little faster without the friction of the clutch throw out bearing which is just an aluminum bushing. To convert to 12v you can keep the same 6v starter and either get a 12v generator like the later cubs or an alternator like the very last cubs.

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Muskrat

12-08-2003 11:10:02




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 Re: Re: 6 volt cub in reply to Heath, 12-06-2003 18:16:19  
Rule of thumb with your electrical circuit. Clean the grounds first becuase they are usaly problem. 12 volt will turn the stater better but I wouldn't do it.



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pete L

12-12-2003 10:14:42




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 Re: Re: Re: 6 volt cub in reply to Muskrat, 12-08-2003 11:10:02  
All good comments. The fact of life with electricy is that if you increase the voltage, your wire size can get smaller and still carry the same current. Thats why high tension power lines can carry 250,000 volts and not have to have a wire the size of a saw log. 6 volt systems have half the voltage of a 12 volt system, but the current needs double. Most wires in the car parts stores are sized for 12 volts. Look for the heaviest gauge wire and use that. Smaller wires restrice the flow of current and create heat instead. Your ground should also connect to an engine/transmission casting direct. If it is connected to something else, each joint between your wire and starter adds resistance. Rusty tractors amplify that issue. Sand/grind the contact point of the lug, apply a little copper based anti-seize as a couplant and rust preventative, and tighten the wire down. Also, most wires these days have lugs that are only crimped on. Any corrosion that occurs on this joint makes matters worse. I sometimes flux and solder the wire to the lug for added security. Some words of wisdom from an old tractor guy is that every 15-20 years, all wiring on a tractor should be replace, solving a lot of issues over time. Good luck....

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pete L

12-12-2003 10:13:54




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 Re: Re: Re: 6 volt cub in reply to Muskrat, 12-08-2003 11:10:02  
All good comments. The fact of life with electricy is that if you increase the voltage, your wire size can get smaller and still carry the same current. Thats why high tension power lines can carry 250,000 volts and not have to have a wire the size of a saw log. 6 volt systems have half the voltage of a 12 volt system, but the current needs double. Most wires in the car parts stores are sized for 12 volts. Look for the heaviest gauge wire and use that. Smaller wires restrict the flow of current and create heat instead. Warm wires or connections are signs of trouble. Your ground should also connect to an engine/transmission casting direct. If it is connected to something else, each joint between your wire and starter adds resistance. Rusty tractors amplify that issue. Sand/grind the contact point of the lug, apply a little copper based anti-seize as a couplant and rust preventative, and tighten the wire down. Also, most wires these days have lugs that are only crimped on. Any corrosion that occurs on this joint makes matters worse. I sometimes flux and solder the wire to the lug for added security. Some words of wisdom from an old tractor guy is that every 15-20 years, all wiring on a tractor should be replace, solving a lot of issues over time. Good luck....

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pete L

12-12-2003 10:11:42




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 Re: Re: Re: 6 volt cub in reply to Muskrat, 12-08-2003 11:10:02  
All good comments. The fact of life with electricy is that if you increase the voltage, your wire size can get smaller and still carry the same current. Thats why high tension power lines can carry 250,000 volts and not have to have a wire the size of a saw log. 6 volt systems have half the voltage of a 12 volt system, but the current needs double. Most wires in the car parts stores are sized for 12 volts. Look for the heaviest gauge wire and use that. Smaller wires restrice the flow of current and create heat instead. Your ground should also connect to an engine/transmission casting direct. If it is connected to something else, each joint between your wire and starter adds resistance. Rusty tractors amplify that issue. Sand/grind the contact point of the lug, apply a little copper based anti-seize as a couplant and rust preventative, and tighten the wire down. Also, most wires these days have lugs that are only crimped on. Any corrosion that occurs on this joint makes matters worse. I sometimes flux and solder the wire to the lug for added security. Some words of wisdom from an old tractor guy is that every 15-20 years, all wiring on a tractor should be replace, solving a lot of issues over time. Good luck....

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