FARMALL C, need parts..need help!

Thanks! Tommy!

I will do most of the repairs my self and a professional restore service will dismantel, sand blast, prime and paint in a properly equipped shop.

If you simply go on the Web and use Goolge or other search engine and type "farmall super C" you will fine numerous sources for parts new and used.

Good luck.

IVe got a whole lot of emails out to people who claim to have parts, I need to get all the names together and put down what they have and how much.

I found a guy that has one for 45 dollars.
He has a tool box for 30 dollars.

Its interesting that you have parts, Ill make a new topic Titled " C-PARTS LISTING"
That way folks can post what parts they have, and I could weed through the ones I dont need yet!

Ill contact you off list for mailing info, can you get pictures?

THANKS! TommyH

Money is really no object, it is but it isnt. If it costs more than I have, but is needed for correctness, ill wait till Ihave enough. Thats the way i do things. If its worth doing, its worth doing right.

I want the 6V system for correctness, I need a gen, starter switch, rod and lever, as well as wiring. Once I have that it will be turning over. Once it turns over Ill fix the carb, sediment bowl, and intake/exhaust manifold, new pistons, rings, sleeves, valves and boil head.
After that it should run. Then I move to the cosmetics, the seat assembly is shot to heck, new tool box, stand, shock/spring, pan and cover. Then a new base for the instrument panel. Then I should be able to ride it. THEN I take it all part and sand blast it. PRime it then 3 coats of IH red, and silver wheel rings. Then new tires, tubes, muffler etc etc...

hopefully I can do it in 3 years!

Like Peabody, I also finished a restoration this year...mine was C, and I think I'm as light in the wallet as he is! (Peabody: I agree, I got way more fun out it than what it cost me ;-) My C wasn't in quite as rough a shape as what yours sounds like, but I did have to chase down a lot of parts along the way. My biggest expenses were the engine rebuild (new or reground everything plus machine shop labor), tires, a starter rebuild, and an alternator. Miscellaneous big expenses were the two tie rods I had to have made because I couldn't find replacements (~$100), and PPG paint/paint supplies.

Free free to email me if I can help.

- David

On the starter switch/rod, there is a pull type rod and the switch is mounted on the starter. This is commonly referred to as a button style starter and be aware that there are two types, one for the earlier A/B models with a push type arrangement, and then the later style for Super A/C/Super C... with the pull type arrangement. Basically the switch is reversed on the starter to face the other way. Yours was probably replaced with a starter from an H or an M which has a threaded post and doesn't have the switch mounted directly to the starter.

The water jacket crack is fairly common. I have seen them bad enough to break up the interrior of the block also, but usually just the exterior behind the carb which is OK if it doesn't leak.

If you are going for a show piece, I agree with the post below, it's going to be expensive. But just to return it to working status might not be out of range, ie: keep the starter and key if it works; drop the fenders, 12V batt and chevy alternator probably cheaper than all orinal 6V system and easier to wire, etc.
Stan(VA).