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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Thermosyphon and recored rad?

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SAm in NS

12-17-2003 08:04:47




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I've had the radiator for my Farmall Super A (serial #342732) recored and I put it back on last Thursday. Since then I've had the tractor running a couple of times and I don't think the rad is cooling the engine as well as the old one did. It looks like the tubes in the new core are about 1/4 of the cross sectional area of the old ones but there are about twice as many of them. The two times I've had it running it hasn't been for very long (probably less than or about half an hour in both cases) and although the bottom of the rad has remained cool to the touch the top has actually become hot enough to burn me when I touch it. I had the old one get to the point where it was uncomfortably hot but never quite enough to burn. This is with just driving around (in first or second gear) with the throttle between 1/4 and 1/2 open. With snow plowing coming up and no temp. gauge on the tractor how can I tell if it's overheating? Also if it does overheat is it possible to add a temp. gauge and water pump (as well as a thermostat)? Are there any other solutions? Thanks, SAm in NS

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NDS

12-17-2003 12:35:16




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 Re: Thermosyphon and recored rad? in reply to SAm in NS, 12-17-2003 08:04:47  
I may be missing something but it does not sound like you have a problem to me. After reading your post I started my 1941 A. After running at fast idle for 10 minutes, in open shed at 40 degree F air temperature, coolant at top of radiator was hot enough that I could not hold finger in it and bottom was still cold. Bought my A in 1963 and after 40 years and probaly 2000+ hours nothing has been done to engine so cooling must be OK. Like others have said if it does not blow steam or lose coolant I would not be concerned about it.

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Farmalldan

12-17-2003 11:36:55




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 Re: Thermosyphon and recored rad? in reply to SAm in NS, 12-17-2003 08:04:47  
Sam,
If your tractor overheats in service, it will blow steam from the overflow, etc. If this is a new experience for you, you will think it is on fire, but it isn't. If it happens, allow it to continue running at a fast idle with no load. Carefully remove the radiator cap. If you have a pressurized system, be VERY careful. When the pressure is removed, much of the water will flash to steam. It is sometimes better to cool down pressure systems by a water spray on the radiator or shutting the engine off to avoid the hazards of steam burns. For a non-pressure system, remove the cap and slowly add water until the radiator is at the proper level again. Add slowly so that cold water does not enter the block and crack it. The thermosyphon systems could have an optional temperature gauge which connected to the lower water inlet. Not the best place, but that was where it went. The gauge fit in a bracket that attached to the governor housing. Tractors with added water pumps should also have the upper water outlet replaced with the outlet for a thermostat. Operating without a thermostat does not allow proper warm-up and is very hard on engines. The thermostat outlet has a gauge connection in it, which is the preferred location. Pressurized cooling systems do not cool any better than non-pressure systems. They merely allow the water to reach a higher temperature without boiling. A water pump will work with pressure and nonpressure systems equally well. Before you condemn your new radiator and spend some more money, determine whether it will cool your tractor. If you can operate your tractor regularly without continuous loss of coolant, it is adequate. I would certainly think it would be ok in the winter. Remember that loose fan belts, retarded timing, and lean mixtures make engines run hotter.

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Red Dave

12-17-2003 11:29:51




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 Re: Thermosyphon and recored rad? in reply to SAm in NS, 12-17-2003 08:04:47  
I don't know if the re-core would restrict the flow or not, but if you aren't sure, you can get a water pump for it and be sure. Late model Super A's had them. You probably don't have to put a thermostat in it, just the circulation of the coolant may be enough to keep it cool. That way you won't need a pressure cap either.

Did you flush out the block when you had the radiator off? Your restriction may not be in the radiator.

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Jed

12-17-2003 10:56:30




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 Re: Thermosyphon and recored rad? in reply to SAm in NS, 12-17-2003 08:04:47  
You are going to need a newer style radiator to go with the water pump. What you are describing is exatly how the old thermosyphion systems operated. I don't know what years tehy changed , but I beleive it was around 44. Your old radiator won't take the pressure that the water pumping system needs.



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gene b

12-17-2003 17:34:34




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 Re: Re: Thermosyphon and recored rad? in reply to Jed, 12-17-2003 10:56:30  
Sorry JED but you do not have to change radiators when going to a water pump. There are several Bs running with belly mowers that have a water pump and they all run the standard radiator around here in eastern IOWA. Local dealer would do this when putting on mowers. Most cooling problems with the 113 engine cooling is there is a terrible amount of crud in the bottom of the block stopping flow past the bottom of the sleeve and there is no other way for coolant to get to the radiatorand out the lower housing.

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Jonathan Mirgon

12-17-2003 20:08:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Thermosyphon and recored rad? in reply to gene b, 12-17-2003 17:34:34  
I have a 1940 (a) with thermisiphon system, The top of the radiator is where the hot water is purged to the radiator, If this is hot enough to burn your fingers thats ok, beacause this is where it is being sent to the radiator to be cooled. The bottom hose is where the cooled water re-enters the engine. If the bottom radiator hose is not fairly cool, then you have a problem, If you can hold your hand on it without being burned it is working properly.

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