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Working with IH 2150 paint

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Steve W (NY)

01-15-2004 06:58:50

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I have a BN that I am a long way away from painting, but I am already planning it all out. I am planning to use IH 2150 sprayed with a traditional spray gun set up. I have a few questions to those who have gone before me.

Can hardener be used with 2150? And if so is it a Case/IH product? Second, I painted my Ford 2N without hardener. I regret it, not because of the softness of the paint, but because the primer I used is a much different color, and everytime I get a scratch, it is really obvious. Can primer be color matched?

Thanks for all the help in advance.

Take Care
Steve

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CNKS

01-15-2004 19:03:16

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Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 06:58:50

Not going to argue with any posts below, but if you use hardener, put it in all coats, or the coats below may lift. DO NOT use hardener without a supplied air system, sooner or later it will get you. A charcoal mask is not sufficient. If you use quality paint such as that by PPG or DuPont, the spec sheets tell you exactly how mix it, you do not have to worry about viscosity. Do not deviate from these specs until you have had experience. As a beginner, get an HVLP gun, the only disadvantage to HVLP is that many experienced painters feel it is too slow. You won't notice the difference, you will use less paint and get a better finish.

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Steve W (NY) you Farmall

01-15-2004 17:27:34

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Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 06:58:50

allright! I grew up AC, but inherited a Ford 2N, which keeps up my 6 acre place. It's funny how a strong dealership dictates the "color" of an area. AC and Massey Ferguson were the predominatnt tractors where I grew up. Definately some Fords and JD's around as well. But I only knew of one farm that ran Red, but I always liked the look of those tractors.

I needed another tractor like a hole in the head, and you can say this little BN followed me home. I really have enjoyed the good advice I've gotten from all of you. It's kind of nice the bond you get from a common interest. I've made quite a few freinds over on the Ford "N" board, and even though I don't have any Orange machines anymore, I still pop ino the Unofficial AC forum to commiserate.

Thanks for all the help. You'll see me a lot of questions as I work this BN back into shape. I always sign my posts with a saying my grandpa used to say many years ago:

Take Care
Steve

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gauger

01-15-2004 10:06:04

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Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 06:58:50

Steve, I forgot to mention, I've had a bad experience with spray cans "for the small stuff". On an A I restored I used a spray can of IH 2150 to paint the touch control assy. It did not match the rest of the tractor and I had to repaint it with paint from the can. I've seen this with other small parts and different spray cans, I have never seen it between gallons of IH 2150 but I mix a few cans together just to be sure and then I store the paint in quart cans (it keep's better, doesn't skin over)

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Scott

01-15-2004 10:01:01

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Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 06:58:50

Steve,
Please e-mail me. I'm curious where in NY you are. I'm at approximately the same stage as you, planning now for painting in coming weeks/months. I too am in NY.

Scott

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gauger

01-15-2004 09:30:04

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Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 06:58:50

IH 2150 is not acrylic, it is alkyd enamel. There are pros and cons when comparing the two. For color,the 2150 is the best "Farmall red" I've seen, but acrylic hold's up to sunlight much better. It is also touchier to shoot. Acrylic is typically reduced 50/50 compared to 8:1 for the IH 2150 so it run's easier. And... acrylic can be well over $100 per gallon for paint and reducer. My tractors are stored out of the sunlight so I use 2150. I reduce it 8 paint to 1 thinner (case IH brand) and shoot it with a medium quality Craftsman gun at about 45 psi. I use no hardener or clear. My "secret" is that I wet sand the first color coat with 600 (smooth tin parts only) and then reshoot it with a light tack coat followed by a full wet coat. Be warned, alkyd enamel dry's painfully slow so keep your area as dust free as you can. Another factor that I don't understand but have seen is true is that you will get a higher gloss when the barometer is high so paint on a sunny day. I use the Case Ironguard primer, yes it is red but if you shoot two full color coats coverage is not an issue. Use side lighting to make sure you lay it down wet. The Case primer wet sands real nicely too, don't bother trying to dry sand it.
An alkyd paint job remains somewhat "soft" forever and seem's to dent rather than chip, not necessarily a bad thing. Finally, if you use a hardener be VERY careful. They contain isocyanates which are nasty, you should really have an positive air full face respirator.

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Daniel

01-15-2004 08:27:37

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Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 06:58:50

My experiance is that you will be sorry if you use red primer. While it sounds good in theory when you start painting you will not be able to tell where you have painted and will end up with missed spot or thin places. I would use a light gray primer.

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Geoff NY

01-15-2004 08:03:10

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Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 06:58:50

Hi Steve, IH 2150 is Acrylic enamel. I get a hardner and thinner (extender) at the local auto parts store that works fine. Because of the way I paint tractors (in parts) I use a primer in a spray can like Rusoleum hard hat. Red rust color. I also found that the HVLP gun works really well with these paints. Have fun, Geoff

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lee

01-15-2004 14:28:38

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Re: Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Geoff NY, 01-15-2004 08:03:10

The can of 2150 I have says Alkyd resin which makes it an alkyd enamel. You can thin alkyd enamel with straight enamel reducer, paint thinner or naptha. Pretty sure you can even use acrylic enamel reducer to thin an alkyd but you must use acrylic enamel reducer with an acrylic. Straight enamel reducer, paint thinner or naptha will not work with acrylic enamel. Most any automotive paint store can set you up with a hardener for the 2150. Nothing real special about the IH on the can of 2150 other than the color.
Not sure if an automotive store can come up with the same color for you. They might get close. The best way to thin paint for spraying is to get a viscosity cup at an automotive paint store. The cup is like a small dipper with a hole in the bottom. Dip the cup in the paint and pull it out. The paint runs out the bottom. Generally you'll want to thin it til you are in the range 18 to 21 seconds to empty the cup. You can control the viscosity very accurately with this cheap and simple cup. Test spray til you work out gun settings (atomizing air, paint supply, gun pressure that work for you). Record these settings and viscosity and you can get back to spraying in short order. With practice you will learn to adjust the gun for varying conditions.
Spraying takes a little practice and is a bit of an art. You want a thin wet coat with no runs. Practice as much as you can. The kicker is you waste paint in practicing. Spray multiple thin wet coats rather than heavy coats. If you've never sprayed you should start with alkyds and then move to acrylics. Acrylics are more difficult to shoot properly.
Safety is an issue also as breathing atomized paint spray and vapors is a serious health hazard. The paint, thinners, reducers, hardeners, are hazardous materials. Everything is extremely flamable. The chemicals get more hazardous as you go from enamels to acrylics to epoxy type paints. The liquids are absorbed thru the skin and the vapors and spray are taken in by the lungs. Get a good book on spray painting and be sure you have the right gear and facilities to do it safely.

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lee

01-15-2004 13:54:56

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Re: Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Geoff NY, 01-15-2004 08:03:10

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Farmer Bob

01-15-2004 07:54:58

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Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 06:58:50

Steve, I have had great success using the hardener from Case IH right along with the 2150 paint. I do not put the hardener in though until the finish coat of paint. Maybe there is a better way (All coats) but this has worked for me.

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Steve W (NY)

01-15-2004 07:59:37

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Re: Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Farmer Bob, 01-15-2004 07:54:58

Thanks Farmer Bob. That's what I want to do. I even want to use a little of the spray can stuff to shoot smaller parts. I was hoping to cover ti with the last coat with hardener. What do use for primer? Or do you not prime?

Thanks
Steve

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Farmer Bob

01-15-2004 15:00:56

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Re: Re: Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 07:59:37

Steve, yes what Dave said below...use the IH Red primer. If you have a 2004 Old Iron Calander laying around check out the March page, my '51 Super C in in the top left corner of the page painted with 2150 and hardener in the finish coat.

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Dave_Id

01-15-2004 08:08:58

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Re: Re: Re: Working with IH 2150 paint in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 07:59:37

Use the red primer from IH.

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