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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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question for rebuilder

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Dave in CT

01-15-2004 23:06:44




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This is for the person who goes by the handle "rebuilder" in this forum.

I read your Nov. 26, 2003 post in response to FARMALL H RUN'S ROUGH regarding fabricating a pre-heater pipe to go around the muffler. I can picture most, but not all of what you've done. "Find an old disc blade to fit over top of muffler and weld to tube." I don't know what a disc blade looks like (non-farmer) so, does this have a hole the exhaust pipe fits through? Is the outer pre-heater tube you're fashioning thus pretty much capped with the exhaust going out the hole in the disc blade and the pre-heated air going out the side hole/pipe to the air intake? You wouldn't happen to have picture of one of these set-ups, would you? I had cold-weather running problems with my H today (3 F, 30MPH winds) and I'm looking to do everything I can to solve them.

Thanks,

Dave

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Kelly C

01-16-2004 20:24:10




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 Re: question for rebuilder in reply to Dave in CT, 01-15-2004 23:06:44  
third party image

Here is a photo of one I had on my H when I 1st got it. I dont have the flex pipe running to the air intake in the photo but you get the idea.



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Dave in CT

01-17-2004 12:29:48




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 Re: Re: question for rebuilder in reply to Kelly C, 01-16-2004 20:24:10  
Thanks for the photo of the muffler heater for the air intake on your H. What's the gap between the wall of the muffler and the inside wall of your heater surround pipe? I can't tell from the photo, does your pipe have a top or is it open at both ends?



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Kelly C

01-17-2004 18:34:34




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 Re: Re: Re: question for rebuilder in reply to Dave in CT, 01-17-2004 12:29:48  
I still have it out in the shop. Tomorow I will get a few close up photos for you.



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Dave in CT

01-18-2004 12:23:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: question for rebuilder in reply to Kelly C, 01-17-2004 18:34:34  
Thanks again for the photo of the intake air heater on your H. I wouldn't be nagging except you'd mentioned getting some close-ups. Photos aren't all that necessary - you can just describe what you've got. From the 1st photo it looks like the top the heater pipe that surrounds the muffler body may be open - is that so or is it just wrapped around the upper seam of the muffler?

Thanks,

Dave

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rebuilder

01-16-2004 12:35:21




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 Re: question for rebuilder in reply to Dave in CT, 01-15-2004 23:06:44  
Dave: I reread your post. The muffler & air cleaner components are not modified at all keeping the tractor original if you so wish. Thus yes the exhaust air is going through the top pipe of the muffler and the disc blade sits on the wide part of the muffler surronding the top pipe.

We fashioned this about 15-20 years ago when I was just a little turd(I've now become a bg turd), and this preheater is still being used on our M and Super M. We use the tractors now primarily to run augers and I have been loading trucks this week with temps in the single digits with no icing. I think you will find this very helpful to you.

By the way; Our "can is the length of the wide part of the muffler. If you feel you would need more heat in the air you may want to adjust the length of the outer tube or larger diameter tube. Both would increase the time the air is heated. I personnally don't think that would be necessary.

GOOD LUCK!

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rebuilder

01-16-2004 12:19:46




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 Re: question for rebuilder in reply to Dave in CT, 01-15-2004 23:06:44  
Dave; I wish I were literate enough on my computer to get the picture to you but until then I'll try to talk you through it.

Basically what you are doing is forming an "upside down can" which fits over the exhaust pipe and muffler. Now our tractors are many times stored in old bank barns with low ceilings so we have put 90 degree bends in the exhaust pipe. You do not need to do this! But with the 90 turn we had to fabricate the "can" on the muffler. So you need to...

1)-find a piece of metal tubing which will fit over the largest diameter of the muffler and still give you at least a 1/4"clearance. For example if you muffler measures 6&1/2", you need a tube at least 6&3/4"(internal). What this does is give enough clearance for your intake air to pass through on its way to the carb. Make sure you use a heavy enough metal to weld on and to stand up to vibration. I would not recommend tin.

2)-now you need to find something to cap off the top of this tube to form the "can". I used an old junk disc blade since most farms have them laying around for other uses. I used it for two reasons;one being it had the proper hole size through the center to fit over the top pipe on the muffler, and secondly it was fairly heavy which would(my opinion) hold down the assembly with it's weight as well as decrease vibration damage. So find a piece of 1/8"or 3/16" plate, and cut a hole large enough to fit over your top pipe on the muffler then weld the plate to the tube from step one. This will give you your "can".

3)- now you need some way of getting the hot air from around the outside of the muffler(inside the "can"),to the air cleaner[an outlet]. A piece of metal tubing or pipe the same diameter as your air intake pipe on th air cleaner would be most suitable. We welded this piece(approx. 1.5" long) to the top on the metal tubing around the muffler(top of side of the "can". Hole should face back towards air cleaner). You can cut the hole through the "can before or after you weld on the outlet tube.

4)- lastly find some way to get the air from the outlet of the "can" to the top of the air cleaner(with precleaner removed). We just happened to have an old tail pipe from some vehicle which had the right diameter to fit the top of the air cleaner and also had a 90 bend to get to the outlet of the "can". I believe you could also find a radiator hose with a 90 degree bend to use and would work well.

Some final thoughts I have. We ended up having to "clamp" the bottom of th "can" to the muffler because of excessive vibration. We used three bolts equal distance , bored the holes in th "can" and tapped them. The bolts have jam nuts then to keep them from backing out. Also, altough the air does not get real hot, I think you should make sure you don't have any holes or blowby in your exhaust system. You don't want any sparks or old exhaust air going back through the carb or intake.

Dave; I hope I have given you a clearer picture of this contraption, but if you are still puzzled post back! Good luck!

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Dave in CT

01-16-2004 19:56:45




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 Re: Re: question for rebuilder in reply to rebuilder, 01-16-2004 12:19:46  
Thanks rebuilder! That was mostly like I had imagined from your earlier post and now I have a very clear picture of what I should do. The extra explanation nailed it down. Perhaps you might rewrite the intro to this latest expanded form and post it on this forum on its own with a subject of "Preheat intake air - running in the cold - prevent carb icing" (or something that would make it turn up in a lot of searches). I've seen several questions posted here and elsewhere this info/experience would answer.

Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes. Does this setup also cure the "running rich" cold problem as well? In other words, does this allow you to continure running without the mixture being richer than summer or do the plugs get a little black anyway?

Dave

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