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jdemaris
04-07-2004 18:55:17
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 414B ENGINE in reply to Greg, 04-07-2004 07:59:52
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I assume you're going to use the Delco 10 or 12 si, it's the most common for this purpose - although I've been using Hitachis lately, taken of older Subarus. They have the same hookup, but are much more compact. Anyway, the alternator has the main battery post, and then a harness plug connects to the top of it and it has two terminals, #1 and #2. #1 goes to switched current, i.e. hook it to the IGN terminal of the ignition switch with at least 16 gauge wire, as long as you have a diesel and not a gas engine. If you want to install a charge indicator light, put it in line between the #1 terminal and the IGN on the ignition switch. #2 terminal on the alternator is for "voltage sensing." It tells the internal regulator what voltage is at the battery. On a machine where there is a long run of wire, this wire would go to the postive post on the battery because the voltage there can be slightly different than at the alternator. For hook up on your tractor, you can just connect it to the large post on the alternator - so just put a jumper wire from #2 to the large BAT post, maybe a 2" or 3" piece of 16 gauge wire. Now, that large BAT post on the alternator goes to the positive post of your battery. It needs to be heavy wire, at least 10 gauge, but 8 is more adequate. Your ammeter goes in line with this wire, i.e. somewhere between the alternator and the positive battery post. A few notes: You don't have to actually hook this big wire on the battery post if there are better places that are closer. On some tractors, it can be put on the starter relay or switch post if you have one. What ever you hook it to, it must eventually hook to the positive battery post and must be at least as heavy as the 8 or 10 gauge wire. Some tractors, cars, etc. don't use direct reading ammeters anymore. The reason being it entails using too much wire. On your tractor it probably won't make a big difference. On a car or truck, the big charge wire would have to run a long, long way. So, in those cases either volt meters are used - which don't need heavy wire, or "shunt-wired" ammeters are used. They give a representative reading. In general, a shunt-wired ammeter that shows 30 amperes of charge might only have 3 amps flowing though it, so it only allows a fraction of the available current to flow through it, and therefore uses a small wire, but lies to you and pretends it's doing more. In the end, you are still seeing an acurate reading, it's just kind of lying to you for your own good. I probably told you more than you want to hear.
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