farmall m stuck pistons

Use a piece of 2X2 oak or maple wood
to drive and drive the pistons out. Be careful not to damage the machined surface of the crankshaft. The sleeves may also come out of the block. If that happens you can put heat on the sleeves to remove the pistons.

I restored a Farmall A and it had stuck pistons too. That is how I removed the pistons and the wet sleeves came out on several of the cylinders.

I put everything new ithe engine except for the crankshaft. I just had it polished and used .002" undersize bearings. It ran like a new on one. I don't think the oil was ever changed in this tractor. As soon as I got it running, I plowed my garden with the 16-inch plow that came with the tractor.

Take a little patience to drive those pistons out. Good Luck, Hal

Was just by an engine re-builder's shopin a dairy-town where I have my IH bits in.

They had the two-cylinder block from a green tractor [John Deere 720 - am I allowed to mention that, here ?]

It had stood out in the Back Forty for 17 years. Its new owner, a collector, had managed to get one huge piston out; the other was not shifting at all, so he brought it in.

Anyhow, the shop has it in a big press, with a big piece of round stock on piston crown, liberal doses of penetrating oil and gingerly brought hydraulic pressure up to 2,000 psi.

The BIG aluminum piston had 4 rings - but was grooved for 6. And the oil control ring was mounted on the skirt below the gudgeon pin - so there has to be plenty to stick fast.

Not shifting as yet - it's a solid bore [eg: no liner] so a cracked block would be fatal ....

Will let you know how they make out - in event, it may work here.

Regards
Pat from New Brunswick

Remember that most pistons will not come out the top without the ridge being removed first. I always take the rods loose from the crank in the hopes that all of the pistons are not stuck, just one or two hopefully. If you can get the crank to move out of the way it is best.

A piece of Hedge limb, close to the size of the piston makes a very good block to use for driving the pistons down. Driving the pistons up from the bottom is a different story. You will need to use a solid rod of a size that you can get between the connecting rod and the cyl. wall. Driving a piston up from the bottom will usually drive out the sleeve also.

I always figure that a stuck engine will need a complete set of pistons and sleeves. Then if I get lucky it is a big plus.

Keep trying something has got to give, hope it isn't you.

GOOD LUCK

Bob

Thats what I had to do with my 300. Pulled the motor. Put it on a stand, flipped her upside down ( Braced the end) and beat the stuffing out of that piston until it came out.

If you unhooked the connecting rod from the Crank and let the crank swing free.
Then drilled a hole through a piston. Dropped a threaded rod through the hole, and put a sizeable washer and nut on the lower end, and put the top part through a heavy peice of steel on top, and put a nut on top of all that.

Then tightened it all up, then started cranking on the top nut, shouldnt it break it free and pull the piston out the top? Your not going to break the block, and the worst you can do is pull it through the piston, which I doubt would happen.

any thoughts?