removing stuck pistons?

Apparently the power applied is tremendous and frankly a little dangerous.

Maybe a glowplug or injector hole could be used in the same fashion.

PS: Need a close measurement.

Use can use tygon tubing over the rod bolts
so you don't damage the crankshaft. Some of the
people that write in on here have used coke and brake fluid. Take your time and try all of these. I used a torch to heat the sleeves on the
pistons that came out together. I only needed the connecting rods since I was installing a new sleeve kit. If the sleeves move a little with the pistons, keep squirting any of those items over the edges of the sleeve. We had a saying when using that torch "come or bleed". I had to pull the crankshaft too, since it had to be machined. I got away with just having it polished and using .002" under size bearings on the mains and rods. If the rod bolts are removable I'd remove them. What tractor is this? Good Luck, Hal

Eventually I tried from underneath the engine block taking off the bottom of the piston rod cap and with a block of wood against the piston rod hitting it with a good sized single jack. It moved ever so slightly and so I went up above and repeated the process from up top. By alternating the blows from top and bottom and by washing down the sides of the cylinder with Liquid Wrench to wash away carbon and rust I freed it up in about 5 minutes. It was amazing how easily it moved once it was cleaned. I'd give something to know the exact physics of why it held so firmly in the first place. My only theory is that the cummulative affects of two frozen pistons combined to produce a sticking power that simply could not be overcome except one at a time. There is absolutely NO way I could have ever freed them up by turning that crank, dragging it in gear or wailing on it with a sledge hammer with both of those things still attached to the crank shaft.

If you don't have a floor press, you can reinforce a piece of 6" channel iron the length of the deck and drill some holes that align with the head bolts or studs. Use a bottle jack that will fit inside the sleeve, shim up as needed and press the jack against the piston and the underside of the channel iron (after securing the channel). Stretch out some old inner tube around the jack's base so you don't score the sleeves--assuming they may still be usable.....Also, you can boil some water and fill up the water jacket right before you push on the pistons. That will expand the sleeves a little, especially if they're wet type sleeves. Have you removed the conn rod nuts so you're not trying to push more than one at the same time? Once you get one heading down a little you should be able to remove the jack and tap the piston from below. Don't forget to slip a piece of fuel hose over the conn rod studs. If you have a ridge, it'll need to be cut too. Be careful you don't damage the crank journals with all this beating and banging going on. Hope it works out. You could also say a prayer too.