Farmall 100 (?) Serial Number Question

I'm kind of curious about your engine block part number, just behind oil filter, cast letters about 3/4" high and ending in R1 or R2. Also just under number one spark plug, and behind throttle linkage is a flat machined surface. Engine serial number will be stamped on that flat surface, could be 2 lines. Let me know these numbers. Thankyou.

It sure sounds like a 1954 and the engine size seems to be stamped on there...

• Previous Engine Discussion

I found the very best way to really make those engine serial numbers show up was using disc brake cleaner. It seemed to highlight the numbers.

Hugh, just for the sake of additional speculation, I'll guess that they started the engine serial numbers over again with the C123 prefix on these R3 blocks in the 100/200 tractors, and went to the 130/230 block at serial number C123-36000, then to the 140/240 blocks at C123-65000 which are the splits in the parts book.

Ramon, if it helps; that (354898R3) is the part number of the engine block, also refered to as it's casting number. The engine's serial number is on the flat under plug #1 that you couldn't read. The chassis number is also called the tractor's serial number which is stamped on a plate attached to various locations depending on the tractor, for yours it would be on the left side of the clutch housing.

Dr. Hugh now dubs thee "Sir Ramon" for your significant contributions to the ever expanding field of Farmallology :) Distinguished service award is granted for mental anguish endured while selflessly attacking your tractor with paint remover to further the cause. You only missed the medal of honor by not securing the engine's serial number in your quest ;)
Stan(VA).

Looking at this 354898 R3 number, does this not indicate this engine block is a closer relative of the Super A or Super C than of the 130 or 230. The reason I raise this is I had some discussion with Red Ryder, (posts at YT) He was changing a Farmall 100 to a C-135 engine. Not sure whether he was about to change crank, rods, pistons and sleeves, or he had done it. He was wanting from me , difference in settings for such things as valves, plug gaps, points, etc. I have the IT manual which covers both.

The easiest way to get a C135 displacement in a 100/200 would be to go with the 3-1/4" overbore P&S kit and try an offset grind on the rod journels of a stock crank. That could gain you .030 stroke so you'd only be down by 1/32" from the C135 stroke. I still believe much improvement came in the head and manifold as well.

Mixing parts from a C135 and a C123 would be relatively painfull (read more expensive). There are at least 2 versions of the C135 blocks, those for the 330/340, and then the 404 (as far as wheel tractors). Crankshafts aren't all the same either, with two different sets of journel diameters both of which are different from the C1x3.
Stan(VA).

He also looked at the possibility of installing a complete C-135 engine in the 100. Of course the only easy change in that case is an engine with proper crank for the pilot bearing. As near as I can see from looking at 130 and 140, while shroud and rad are different, I think they would exchange, and work around the fan.

The complete C135 would probably work if it came from a 404 and not the 330/340. I think that block had a different bolt pattern at the bellhousing. Stan(VA).

I guess my 130 will get pistons and sleeves that fit without modification, when the time comes. These little engines on 24" tires always did run out of traction before they ran out of power. I could readily see making the change with a SC, 200, 230 or 240. On 36" tires they never did have enough engine in my opinion.

And I agree, with the 1x0 series tractors traction is usually a bigger problem than HP.
Stan(VA).

This 140 I have was not run in 10 years, just sat in a heated warehouse. They never could get it going, since they had bought this farm and turned it into a wholesale tropical plant greenhouse operation. They had the wiring all messed up, still 6 volt generator and trying to use neg ground. I doubt it the tractor has more than 500 hours on it since new. It drives like 130 did in 1958. They had also left it half full of coolant.

After completely rewiring, alternator, amp gauge, battery, even light fuse and switches. Water pump and top half of rad were mass of rust. Rebuilt pump and recored rad. After all this I couldn't gey it to run smooth, so decided to adjust valves as it needed a new valve cover gasket anyhow. Went by book and used 0.014 for both intake and exhaust. It had been way off. This setting improved it, but I was not satisfied. I noticed the exhaust valve setting for C-135 in 404 is 0.020. I gradually increased my exhaust valve settings and at 0.018 the 140 works perfect.