Metal Fuel Line on A

My tractor isn't running well all of a sudden. It's: A: Not getting proper fuel flow or B: Not cooling to the point of shutting the tractor down.

So, first of all, I cleaned out the radiator grill and front last night as it was coated with grass and stuff. I could run about 3 hours with no problem, then it went to about 2 hours, then an hour and half, then an hour and so on until now, within a couple of minutes it begins to stutter and hesitate under load.

I added fluid to the radiator reservoir, but I can't get that darn square nut/bolt off to drain it back to the proper level so the thermo-siphon will operate properly (I guess-- by the way does the Thermo-siphon suck or just blow? ;) )

I am also getting ready to pull the carb off as it looks like the needle valve is sticking (one of them there rubber tipped goombas) and I might be having a little stickyness to the floats.

Oh yeah, I can't seem to keep the idle speed working, either.

So my questions are these: 1) Does all this sound like I am working sensibly? 2) Does anyone know where I can get a total brass valve solution for my MS-carb? 3) In the parts catalog (Binder's Books) p 77, items 6 and 7 from the diagrma on p 76, are the metal fuel line and the coupling nuts for the A/B models. Does anyone know where these items can be purchased new or a place where a suitable replacement can be had-- mine are starting to leak from all the work I have been doing and the fitting nuts are worn (that way when I got the tractor-- like someone worked them with pliers instead of a wrench.) The part Nos. I require are: 58138 DX for the line and 29899 D for the coupling nuts.

Once again, thanks for all the support and sage wisdom before I receive it.

Christopher

I idled her down, put her in gear (no PTO) and started for the house. Immediately she stuttered and "bucked" under load. By fits and starts, I got the tractor back to the house and let her run there and played with the idle speed a bit (idles too high right now.)

I let her run outside like that for about 20 minutes and no problems. The water temp seems okay, the tractor is running relatively smoothly. So I climb aboard, engage the PTO, put her in 2nd and take her for a big circle in the 'yard.' 2 seconds later and she's stuttering like before. I get her back to the place where I work on her and leave her in neutral and running. Still okay. Still running as I write this.

I do have a new sediment bowl and I placed the fitting into the tank about 1/2" high instead of the original 1/4" to eliminate crud going down the tube, though I get that is not a guaranty.

So, as I write this, I note the tractor is no longer running. I go out and try to start it and no go. I squeeze the line and then attempt again. I go, "Wonder if there is crud over the sediment bowl fitting into the tank?" I open the cap and put my lighter right over the hole... just kidding... I used my flashlight after I turned it on away from the tank (its a little `un) and I shined it down there over the hole. There was something there. From where I was standing, I decided to give the rubber fuel line section a squeeze to observe the goings on. Sure enough, the crud pops up out of the hole with some bubbles. I do it again and something else pops out, and then falls right back in. In the old line of work I was in, we'd call that a 'smoking gun.'

So I am leaning toward emptying the tank, pulling the lines and cleaning them out with a brush, air or both.

I have a job to complete and cannot afford to take several days to do the acetic/muriatic acid thing with the tank and let dry. Is there some other fluid (beyond gasoline) that I can flush the tank with, blow out, and then get started within a 24 hour period or should I just blow it out and not use a fluid of any kind?

NOTE: This tank method I propose is intended to see me through this job and then I can do more long term methods...

Thanks again for all your input (even when I don't like hearing it...) and I welcome further assistance in this matter. (my formal voice, sorry.)

Christopher

Rock

Rock

Rock

How about an A with Magneto? I Don't know much about magnetos...is there a condenser in there also? My A also quits when hot...gets to a certain point and I hear it slowly die on me. Is it a big deal to change this on an A with a Magneto?

Thanks,
Dave

You could also use copper tube, but run the risk of the copper work-hardening from the vibration and splitting or breaking. This could result in fire. And steel brake line is just as easy to bend as copper line, so why risk it?