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My take on it is this. Tractor is what....40 years or more old? It got along this long on 6V, why change it? Here's what to check to make it work for another 40 years. 1 Guage Battery cables. These are often replaced with 12V skinny cables. You can usually find that during cranking, some part of the wrong cable will get hot. That's telling you that they need to be replaced. Second thing is you need to make sure all the connections are "clean, bright and tight". After I clean everything, I always smear a little dielectric grease on the connections. Some people swear by vaseline. Either way, it will prevent corosion from setting in. If it doesn't charge, diagnosing is pretty easy, and it will be cheaper and easier to find the problem than replace it with a 12V system and rewire it. Finally, this may not be true for everyone, but I like my stuff "factory". If I see a machine that's been modified, I always figure it's worth less. That goes for 12V conversions, no matter how well they are done. One last thing. If you have a good battery and good cables, and you don't use your lights, you don't even need a working charging system. Get a "Battery Tender" brand battery charger. This isn't a trickle charger, it''s one that shuts itself off when the battery reaches full charge. You can run a Super A all day on a good battery, and just plug it in at night. Both my BN and Ford 2N I have purposely undercharging. I plug whichever one I used last into the charger, and the batteries never get overcharged, which is the leading reason for worn out batteries in these old tractors. The 2N's battery came with the tractor 5 years ago and is going strong. They will both start right up at -20 degrees Farenheit. Take Care
Steve
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