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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Hard starting Super M cont.

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Ludwig

09-14-2004 10:10:47




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Sorry I didn't get to make any replies yesterday on my hard starting Super M post.
To answer some questions, I know that this carb has a brass float, we had some troubles with the needle sticking a couple years ago so I've been in there. Using Stabil in the gas over the winter seems to have fixed that problem, don't need to tap the carb with a hammer any more.
When the tractor does start it doesn't spit smoke or anything, runs just great.
I've looked at the carb during this time and never seen any sign of dripping or anything out of the ordinary.
I've never heard anything about setting the valves on these tractors. Does the owners manual show how to do it or do I need a better book?
I suspect that the valves haven't been touched in 20 years or more....

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Bob M

09-14-2004 10:39:44




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 Re: Hard starting Super M cont. in reply to Ludwig, 09-14-2004 10:10:47  
If the tractor runs OK once it’s started it’s not probably not a valve adjustment problem (it would run crappy otherwise). More likely it’s either carburetion or ignition problem. A couple tests you can run:

1 – Pull the air cleaner gooseneck off the carb inlet. With the choke open (rod pushed all the way in) and the throttle open ½, fire a 2 second or so shot of ether into the carb while the engine is cranking. If it fires right up, it’s a carburetion problem. If it does not start or if it spits out the carb or exhaust suspect the ignition.

2 – Pull off one plug wire, attach a fresh sparkplug to the end and lay the plug on the coil. Now crank the engine and watch the gap at the plug. You should see a juicy, blue spark every 2nd revolution. If you get a lazy yellow spark, intermittent spark or no spark at all your ignition system needs work.

BTW a properly tuned Super M is one of the best starting tractors every made. Mine can sit outside for months in sub-freezing temperatures, yet lights off every time after only 2 or 3 crankshaft revolutions.

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Ludwig

09-14-2004 10:50:41




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 Re: Hard starting Super M cont. in reply to Bob M, 09-14-2004 10:39:44  
Thats how mine was before, it took almost nothing to get it started. Which was good because most of the time we had a really bad battery and you didn't get many tries.
Sitting here thinking about it I don't know the last time the aircleaner was cleaned out either. I'll add that to my project list. Although it seems like if the aircleaner was dirty it would make the engine run badly. I did check the oil level this spring. Dumped the old oil and replaced it.

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Bob M

09-14-2004 11:24:14




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 Re: Hard starting Super M cont. in reply to Ludwig, 09-14-2004 10:50:41  
Hey Ludwig – You are right that a dirty air cleaner could make the tractor run bad (lack power, smoke black, etc under load), but should not affect starting. However it's not a bad idea to clean the aircleaner anyhow!!

Incidentally my Super H gradually became harder and harder to start this spring – especially once it was warmed up. Problem turned out to be worn/burned points - gap had become too small to even be measured. Installing new points and condenser cured the problem - though I did go back later and install new cap, rotor, wires and plugs.

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Ludwig

09-14-2004 13:39:58




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 Re: Hard starting Super M cont. in reply to Bob M, 09-14-2004 11:24:14  
Sounds exactly like my problem.
I've been considering converting to electronic ignition. The kit I looked at was like $200 for a 6v system though. I have no desire to convert to 12v, the 6v works well enough since I only use the tractor in the summer time.
Considering its been probably 15 years since the last time we replaced points (guessing here, I remember Dad doing them when I was about 13 but they could have been done since then) I guess I'll just do the points and the rest and call it good enough.
Another thing, I remember Dad doing an o ring when he did the points last time, what was that all about? Do I need to order that o ring separately?

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rebuilder

09-15-2004 04:36:58




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 Re: Hard starting Super M cont. in reply to Ludwig, 09-14-2004 13:39:58  
Ludwig:

The 0-ring is found on the drive end of the distributor and should not need to be changed unless you find oil getting into the point/weight chamber. You would have to remove dist. to change in any case. Part #238-5011



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MagMan

09-14-2004 17:42:45




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 Re: Hard starting Super M cont. in reply to Ludwig, 09-14-2004 13:39:58  
I can sell you the electronic ign for under $85.00 plus shipping. I have a super M also Mine has had a complete tune up and carb rebuild plus head and valve work and the only way this will start is when you let off on the starter switch. I also have been having troubles with my balist resestor so I ran a jumper and it starts and runs alot better. I was going to go with the electronic but I pull it in a stock class abd they dont alow it. JON

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