Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank.

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
steve willingha

09-22-2004 19:45:54




Report to Moderator

How can I get the rust out of the gas tank without breaking my fingers and my tank? Tank is in fairly good condition so I would hate to replace it.




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
STEVE WILLINGHAM

09-23-2004 22:02:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
THANKS FOR THE GREAT ANSWERS. GLAD THERE WERE SOME MORE FOLKS OUT THERE WITH THE SAME PROBLEMS. MY BROTHER GOT KILLED -34 YEARS AGO ON THIS FARMALL 100 AND I'AM TRYING TO RESTORE IT FOR HIM!!! "THANKS GUYS" STEVE WILLINGHAM



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Robert in NC

09-23-2004 14:46:38




Report to Moderator
 Re: A FIX TO YOUR PROBLEM in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
Muriatic acid is the best route that I know of. I read through all the replies and I have done most of them with car, tractor, and even one holding tank. They all work well but Acid really gets it all. Chains and rock will work but not in tight places like the folds near baffles. Sealers that you just pour in over the rust work but will leave un-even/un-level spaces. Muriatic acid gets it all. True that you have to be careful with it. Here are some of the precautions. Do this with plenty of ventilation. The chemical reaction of acid to rust produces harmful gases. Make sure to have some baking soda or vinegar near by. This way you have something to neutralize the acid if you spill it on you. Wear you PPE! Personal Protective Equipment. Gloves, eye shield, apron ect.. Make you that you do not have anything aluminum near by or on the tank. IE Sediment bowl, gas cap, ect.. Muriatic acid as well as other acids will eat aluminum very quickly. If you shop has a concrete floor that is dirty or has been treated with a sealer, do not use the acid where it may spill or drip on the floor. Dirty floors will more than likely have many chemicals and particles on it. Acid spilling or dripping on this floor will cause a reaction and could produce dangerous gases. If you have a treated or sealed floor, muriatic acid will eat the sealer off faster than you can put a neutralizer (base) on it. In both cases though, your floor will be bright and clean. LOL..
When you go to treat the tank, you do not have to slosh the tank around. Rather, let it soak on all sides rotating it every 15-20 minutes or so. When you have completed the soaking, drain all the acid out into a clean plastic bucket. Before the tank can dry out, place 1 gallon of white vinegar inside the tank and rotate around for about another 20 minutes making sure that once again all sides are treated. This will neutralized the remaining acid and give you a better bond for you tank sealer. Once you have treated all sides drain the vinegar out into your collected acid. This will neutralize the acid and make it safe to discard. Take your treated and clean tank and run some hot water through it and slosh it around. Drain the water out and dry it with a blow dryer on low heat. Once dry, your tank is now ready for sealant. There about 20 good sealants out there. I personally like POR gas tank sealer. It puts a heavy seal on your tank and has yet to crack or flake off. I have treated all my tanks here on the farm with it and it has always done good. It's kind of pricey, but it's worth it if you think about the damage a bad or cheap sealer could do. Hope this help you and if you have any questions please let me know.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Kevin Brooks

09-25-2004 10:58:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: A FIX TO YOUR PROBLEM in reply to Robert in NC, 09-23-2004 14:46:38  
What size tank did you clean and how much acid was used? Was the acid you used full strength, i.e. straight from the container you purchased, or did you dilute it?
Great idea. I have been leaning in that same direction for some time now.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
STEVE WILLINGHAM

09-23-2004 21:13:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: A FIX TO YOUR PROBLEM in reply to Robert in NC, 09-23-2004 14:46:38  
TO ROBERT IN N.C. THAT WAS GREAT, AWSOME INFO THANKS FOR IT.THATS THE WAY I'AM GOING TO GO!!!



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Randy SE-MN

09-23-2004 13:11:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
I used my Atlas turning lathe by welding a 12"x20" inch plate in some 1/2" treaded rod. I ran the rod through the chuck and secured it with some nuts. I then used some bungee cord to secure the tank to the plate, threw in about 2 pounds of theaded nuts of vatious sizes and some diesel fuel (couple of gallons). tuned the lathe on to slow speed rotating the tank and walked away. An hour later it was very shiny inside. I's still use a fuel filter for awhile though.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
jeremy halstead

09-28-2004 19:39:02




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to Randy SE-MN, 09-23-2004 13:11:56  
one way that works really good is to take whey which is a by product of milk and pour it in there for a while and it will shine liek it is brand new!



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
gene

09-23-2004 08:41:48




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
I've use a product called Red-Kote on several gas tanks with good results. About $19.00 a quart.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Redmud

09-23-2004 07:19:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
I use crushed stone for rust removal, gravel will work but it takes longer. fine crushed stone has sharp edges and will cut the rust much better and takes less time. 2-3 gallons and a slow tumbler and the job is done. I have 4 foot stand with a 21 inch antique spoke car wheel mounted on top with a hand crank on the backside of the wheel. add the crushed stone, strap the tank to the wheel, get someone to turn the crank while you drink coffee or whatever and the job is done. we built this stand with scrap back in 69 or 70. it didn't take long to build as we were not trying to impress anyone and it still works great today. also the wheel will tilt back and forth so you don't miss any rust. we also used the stand to paint antique spoke wheels for a run free paint job.
Redmud:

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rustyfarmall

09-23-2004 06:27:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
Muriatic acid is the best and the cheapest, guaranteed to get that rust, but be very cautious with that stuff.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Kendall

09-23-2004 06:01:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
I used Kreem fuel tank liner in both my Harley and my Super A. I put a chain in along with the first part (which is phospheric acid) and rolled it around to clean the walls. The instructions say to leave it in for a while to do its thing. You chain will come out super clean as a bonus. I am happy with the results on both.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
farmallman

09-23-2004 05:51:52




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
I had the same problem. What i did was make a nozzle to fit on the end of the high pressure washer that has an elbow to get in the tough to get places. After an 1/2 of doung it, my tanks was pretty clean, as clean as i could get in. I also put in an inline gass filter to collect any other junk. After i rebuilt my carb my Cub runs fine.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
scruffy

09-23-2004 04:00:01




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
I put a short length of chain inside and some diesel and shake the %@&$ out it it. This gets the loose stuff off, and that usually enough, but some tanks are bad and require sealing. I use "float slosh". It's used by seaplane pilots to seal their floats, and used-to be used on aircraft fuel tanks as well, but thats not on the lable any more. Remove the sed. bowl, tape the hole, and pour it in and coat the walls. I put an air hose in for a day to aid drying, at very low presure. I did this 20 years ago to a bike tank that was left outside open for a winter and it is still in operation today, no fuel troubles at all. Wag-aero in Wi. is a good spot to get. A lt. will do about 3 tanks.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
gwb

09-23-2004 04:58:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to scruffy, 09-23-2004 04:00:01  
Don't use float slosh, or an older aircraft sloshing compound in any fuel tank! The stuff isn't impervious to compounds (especially alcohol) that is found in modern gasolines. It will slough off and clock your fuel system.

However, Randolph makes a 'modern gas safe'sloshing compound. It is white, rather than red, as the old stuff was. Aircraft supply houses generally stock it.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
old

09-22-2004 19:56:53




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to steve willingham, 09-22-2004 19:45:54  
I use turpentine in them its loves to eat rust, but it has to be the old stuff. Put a gallion in shack the h%$# out of it drain it and filter the turpentine and do it again a few times



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rustyfarmall

09-23-2004 06:31:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to old, 09-22-2004 19:56:53  
Old, would you mind sharing your secret on the turpentine? I have tried to dissolve rust with both the new type of turpentine, and also the original pure gum spirits of turpentine. Niether one of these seems to have any effect at all on rust. At least not for me.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
old

09-23-2004 07:06:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to rustyfarmall, 09-23-2004 06:31:55  
The only part of this trick I don't tell is that I have at times also put some tranny fluid or PB etc with the turpentine. But not always the turpentine I use seems to desolve rust just about on contact. The brand I use is E-Z gum spirits of turpentine. Its artist grade turpentine if that makes any differance. I've use it in engines that where locked up and also have used it to free up stuck rings and so far it has worked about 90% of the time. But it might be that your not holding your month right. Just kidding

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob Quale

09-23-2004 15:11:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: Rust Problem inside walls of gas tank. in reply to old, 09-23-2004 07:06:16  
I have used a gas tank repaire kit from Eastwood Auto Products. It worked well, it is of the muriatic acid type. About $50.00 us for the whole thing. No affiliation, just liked the kit.

Bob



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy