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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall M Questions...

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A Billheimer

10-22-2004 00:39:13




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I just bought My first farmall M.. with the clutch pushed it still won't slip in gear, have to force it (grind).. but the clutch feels good once in gear and releasing it..

I've been told to slip the clutch, maybe chain to tree and ride clutch, that it may help loosen things up, rust or whatever.. does this sound practical??

also I got a shop manual, but need something more extisive on the H. I mean serious detail and breakdowns, where can I go?

This is a start.. THANKYOU IN ADVANCE

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A Billheimer

10-22-2004 21:21:42




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to A Billheimer, 10-22-2004 00:39:13  
Thanks for the Replys.. But one problem, it was like 4A.M. and had a brain fart.... I Have a farmall H does this change what I have to do??

sorry bout that

thanks again..... .



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Andy Martin

10-22-2004 08:29:24




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to A Billheimer, 10-22-2004 00:39:13  
Of course adjust the clutch (1/2" free play at the clutch pedal) and grease the throwout bearing and the pilot bearing.

But my bet is some of the clutch facing stuck to the pressure plate or flywheel and broke loose from the clutch disc. It is still captured between adjacent parts of the facing but slides outward and drags on flywheel. Working the tractor does not help this. I have had it happen on several tractors which had sat and had the clutch stick. The clutch would unstick but still had to be replaced.

As the other posts said you don't have to split the tractor. But it is a job to get everything apart and like a Chinese puzzle, the pieces only come out one way so you have to figure out that way. Also the tapered bolts in the flex coupling can be a bear to get out.

I&T manual is good enough.

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dej(JED)

10-22-2004 05:55:11




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to A Billheimer, 10-22-2004 00:39:13  
Don't try to play around slipping a clutch against a tree, etc. There is a mechanical reason why the clutch is behaving like it is.
First check the adjustment on the clutch rod. Spin it out a little if there is adjustment remaining. If there isn't you need a new clutch.
The clutch on an M is all that hard to change out. If you do need a clutch you can get one PDQ from Joe Faust who can be found thru Red Power. I think a clutch and plate are around $135 with exchange. Good luck.

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Allan in NE

10-22-2004 06:11:12




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to dej(JED), 10-22-2004 05:55:11  
Jed,

Boy, I agree. I think chaining up to a tree is akin to being totally brain dead. Not so very smart.

Allan



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JBlavl

10-22-2004 07:11:42




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to Allan in NE, 10-22-2004 06:11:12  
I would bet $10 it's the clutch adjustment.



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little john

10-22-2004 04:20:43




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to A Billheimer, 10-22-2004 00:39:13  
You might want to get a parts manual from Binder Books. It has good detailed views.



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Hugh MacKay

10-22-2004 02:39:41




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to A Billheimer, 10-22-2004 00:39:13  
A Billheimer: How is the clutch adjustment? I forget the exact adjustment but you should have about 1" give or take a bit between pedal arm and deck plate of transmission. Substancially more than that could cause it not to completely release.

I your tractor has not seen a lot of use lately, sticking or rust could be problem. Three areas could be problem pilot bearing, release bearing or clutch disc not moving freely on shaft. Do you hear any noise when clutch is depressed, either in gear or out? Release bearing could make a noise any time clutch is depressed, whereas pilot bearing will only make a noise if transmission shaft is stopped as in gear. It is unlikely clutch disc sticking would make any noise.

My recomendation would be check clutch adjustment then use the tractor. Pull some good heavy loads. Do a bit of foreward and backing, generally a lot of shifting gears. If you stop to shift gears, will transmission start turning again as you go through neutral? Try letting tractor run with clutch depressed and in gear for 20 min. Hooking it to a tree may be good idea during this 20 min run, most importantly make sure clutch pedal is anchored down well. Your not going to sit 20 min with foot on clutch pedal. This is the cheap fix, you still may have to split tractor for repairs in the end.

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captiank

10-22-2004 06:58:40




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to Hugh MacKay, 10-22-2004 02:39:41  
Good post, but may not have to split the M to fix the problem. On most of the M's you can drop the belly pump and take the input shaft and clutch out and fix any bearing problems too. Only if the big clutch (12" I think) is in it do you have to do the split.

PS. I know you already knew that. :>)



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Hugh MacKay

10-22-2004 18:23:30




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to captiank, 10-22-2004 06:58:40  
captain: Actually I had forgotten that, as I really only ever knew that from being told rather than experience. One tends to remember these items better from experience. With the exception of the SA all letter series Farmalls were gone from our farm by 1958, when I was 16.

I would still recomend doing as I told him before getting the wrenches out.



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captaink

10-22-2004 20:14:27




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to Hugh MacKay, 10-22-2004 18:23:30  
I did it once, on a Sunday afternoon with the loader on the tractor. Probably why I still remember. LOL



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Hugh MacKay

10-23-2004 14:17:15




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to captaink, 10-22-2004 20:14:27  
captain: Those tasks tend to cause one to remember.



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Oklahomatractorrebuilder

10-22-2004 07:33:24




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 Re: Farmall M Questions... in reply to captiank, 10-22-2004 06:58:40  
You only have to split a M or Super M to replace the 12 inch pressure plate, the clutch plate can be replaced on the 12inch without splitting tractor. The 11 inch clutch can be replaced with no trouble, even the pressure plate.



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