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hydraulic question

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Chadd

12-08-2004 09:40:05

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I have a Farmall 806 and am having hydraulic trouble. The other day, I hooked up to our IH vibrashank and thought I would see how it would do. (Our 966 is usually used on it, but it was being used for plowing) When I tried to lift the vibrashank up, the hydraulics made a humming noise, slight load on motor was apparent, and I saw the hydraulic hose jump an inch or two. However, it would not lift the implement up any distance. Our 966 has no trouble lifting it. Afterward, I tried the other set of remotes and it lifted it barely an inch or two at WOT. I drove out to the field, worked up, and noticed that as the tractor warmed up, the hydraulics worked better, but not as well as I thought they should. (It won't lift our cyclo-air planter initially either, but will after the tractor warms up as well) After 5 hours of straight work, it would take 20 to 30 seconds at 2400 rpm to lift the vibrashank all the way up while going in 3rd gear without the TA on.(In other words, I had to start lifting before I reached the end of the row to prepare for the upcoming corner) It seemed faster if the hydraulic lever was varied in position. Also, if I had the tractor sitting still, it could not lift the vibrashank out of the ground It would only lift when the tractor was moving. Lastly, when the tractor is standing still with the vibrashank out of the ground, the fast hitch raises up and the vibrahank tilts back. I know that the fast hitch doesn't have downpressure, should it hold the hitch down? The hitch lifts up when backing hay wagons up the barnhill every once in a while, too. Any ideas?

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Hayshaker5

12-08-2004 11:05:47

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Chadd, 12-08-2004 09:40:05

Chadd, Have you checked the female and male couplers that they are either both pointed are round. I purchased a 706 Farmall when I started farming in 1973, and went out to disk and could not raise or lower it without it chattering. The tractor had the IH pointed tips and the cylinder had the Poineer rounded tips. I replaced the both male end with the IH pointed tips and it worked like charm. I think its worth a look if you haven't already.

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Allan in NE

12-08-2004 10:37:42

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Chadd, 12-08-2004 09:40:05

Hi Chadd,

Boy, that sounds like the pump is gettin' weak in the knees. Is the hitch a little on the anemic side too?

Oh, and that hitch is gonna "push up", that's normal.

Allan

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Chadd

12-08-2004 12:28:26

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Allan in NE, 12-08-2004 10:37:42

I had a mechanic come and look at it two years ago. The hydraulics got weak, there was a rattling sound in the clutch housing, and the power steering and everything was very slow. He said that there was water in the oil (the rattling noise was water going through the pump) and helped me drain all of the fluid out and refill it. He also flow and load tested it out of the rear remotes. He hooked up the machine, put load on the system, and waited until the fluid heated up. Afterwards, we drained it all out and let it sit empty for a few days and then refilled it. The rattling is still there, but seems to get a little better each time we change out the oil. He said that the pump seemed to be putting out a little less pressure than it should, but that it was probably due to a slightly weakened valve in the hydraulic system. He showed me where the valve was (when sitting on the tractor seat, it is on the right hand side of the cast housing where the seat sits on and the hydraulic levers go into; there are two plugs there and the valves are inside of them) Does this sound correct? What do these valves do, and could this be the cause of the problem?

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Allan in NE

12-08-2004 13:46:25

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Chadd, 12-08-2004 12:28:26

Chadd,

The hydraulics are a bit different on those big chassis outfits. The hitch and remotes are on one pump and the steering, brakes, clutches, T/A, etc. are all on the other.

If I'm not mistaken, when the hitch position control lever is down in the "run" position, the draft lever will then control the drop and lift rates (read: speed) of the remotes as well as the draft of the hitch. You can actually control the speed of the remote cylinder's movement by using your draft control. So, maybe your levers are just lying in the wrong place?

I'm sure I remember something about that from the dark remote recesses of my old memory. :>)

Something to think about anyway,

Allan

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the tractor vet

12-08-2004 14:26:55

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Allan in NE, 12-08-2004 13:46:25

Allen the draft control only controls the load on the fast hitch or three point . THe remotes just do what they can with pressure and flow. and the pressure relief controls it.

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Allan in NE

12-08-2004 14:43:13

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to the tractor vet , 12-08-2004 14:26:55

Hi TV,

Are ya really sure �bout that?

I'd just about bet my wife's well-used rolllin' pin that the speed of the remotes can be controlled by the draft sensing circuit (but, only on the large chassis tractors).

Dunno fer sure tho, so ya might be right.

Allan

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the tractor vet

12-08-2004 21:35:06

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Allan in NE, 12-08-2004 14:43:13

well i have had them apart and the only thing that it does is contorl the draft sensing on the hitch and i have run the 06 seires since new , nowif your talken the PFC system that is used on the Later 86 seires and up they have a control for each remote.

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Allan in NE

12-09-2004 03:32:07

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to the tractor vet, 12-08-2004 21:35:06

Mornin' TV,

Boy, I sure don't know; never had a 06 series tractor, myself.

I remember from years ago that the larger 66 series tractors worked that way and I guess I just assumed that they were pretty much the same animal hydraulically as the 06 & 56's were in the larger frame styles.

Allan

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chadd

12-08-2004 12:05:56

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Allan in NE, 12-08-2004 10:37:42

The hitch has a good load capacity, although it does hiccup when the hitch is in use for a long time carrying large loads. (such as moving round bales) I would assume that that can be attributed to the seals in the lift cylinder more than to the pump its self. Is there anyway to lock the fast hitch so that it doesn't lift up with an implement on it? I have seen in some IH books that the upper links can be removed from the lift arms and put into holders on the differential case (ours has those holders). It seems like a lot of work though, so I was curious if there is an easier way?

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CJ-maybe

12-08-2004 13:36:23

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to chadd, 12-08-2004 12:05:56

Allen's correct.Just get the hitch raised about right,grab one link at a time, pull the clip,move it (the "duckhead")to bracket,put clip in.No jacks or anything.They shouldn't be stuck to bad,they turn just a bit raising & lowering.Try lifting the link,the bottom of the pin's probably worn.They need to be locked out alot-wagons,spreaders-heck on pto's,BTDT.All around handy for some stuff.

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Allan in NE

12-08-2004 12:23:49

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to chadd, 12-08-2004 12:05:56

Chadd,

I'd guess if you've got good hitch then the pump should be alright. Maybe your darned vibrashank is just too heavy? :>)

I think to change to the rigid hitch, you just pull those two hairpins, don't ya?

Allan

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Chadd

12-08-2004 12:33:12

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Allan in NE, 12-08-2004 12:23:49

Thanks for the picture; that is what I saw in the books. I couldn't get the pins to come out of the lift arms. I somehow think that they have not been removed in the last 30+ years. I will have to try it again the next time I use it on there. How do you get the arms to stay in those? do the cotter pins fit behind the lockout brackets?

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Allan in NE

12-08-2004 13:03:56

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Chadd, 12-08-2004 12:33:12

Yes,

There should be enough room to slip that hairpin and flatwasher down between the housing and the bracket.

Allan

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the tractor vet

12-08-2004 10:28:11

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Chadd, 12-08-2004 09:40:05

Ok , the 806 has probably a 1750 releif valve and the 966 is probably a 2150 or higher . And also when was the last time that the hdy.filter was changed ??? The best way to check the system out is to flowrate it and see if the pump is up to snuff and where the releif is popen. A new pump maybe in order. If the pump is in good shape then install a higher releif.

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Chadd

12-08-2004 12:11:45

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to the tractor vet, 12-08-2004 10:28:11

The hydraulic fluid is changed once a year and the filter gets changed at the same time, although I am noticing that every once in a while the bypass valve in the filter seems to stick open after you shut the tractor off. It did the same thing last year and when I took the filter out, it was clean and so was the screen. I don't know what would cause that. It used to have a problem with water in the transmission fluid, which would start to freeze in winter, so it now gets drained every year. Is there any way I can check the flow rate without calling a dealer or mechanic?

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the tractor vet

12-08-2004 14:20:59

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Re: hydraulic question in reply to Chadd, 12-08-2004 12:11:45

That filter should be changed alot more often.

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