Farmall M live hydraulics conversion

Here is one picture, if you search for “1950 M” in “Pieces and Parts” you will find three others. Not a real pretty tractor, but it runs! The only thing I would change is I would take out the “quick couplers” as I believe they slow down the oil flow a bit.

I have seen chain and belt drives on tractors that have been converted. I looked at them and scratched my head as to why anyone would put themselves through the maintenance, replacement, and danger of having either a roller chain or belt driving a hydraulic pump when IH already gives such a trouble free and neat method for doing this. By the way, when the loader isn’t on there is a home made supply tank in the torque tube where the belly pump used to be!

My two cents worth, don’t use the chain or the belt, go with the gear drive. I've never been sorry!

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I put the live hydraulics on my H, which is mounted with a loader. I wouldn't trade that little bugger fer nothin' now.

It made a totally different tractor outta the little guy. That thing with the 8' bucket just whips around all over these hills raisin' hate and discontent amongst the snow drifts! Really is a joy to run after the fix.

Allan

It was a no-brainer for me as my tractor was new enough to have the new style front cover with the big timing gears. I think the split point was in 1950, 51 or thereabouts.

Four bolts, two gaskets and it was a done deal. Downside was that it ate just this side of $1K after all was said and done with the power steering and everything.

Allan

You can get lots of hp through a belt. Again check with your supplier and they will tell you how many hp you can get in a certain sized belt with a certain fpm speed.

Others have used power steering pumps driven off the water pump.

There are mixed results buying a Super M timing gear driven pump (in front of the distributor/magneto). The Super M's had a stronger drive train and some have had trouble with their timing gears unless the drive gear is changed, but others have had good results for years.

The gear drive pump mimics the factory and is probably the best choice.

Thanks

Aw heck, you 'taint the only one that thinks I'm nuts. :>)

I think this little 966 toy of mine might very well set some new records in the "stupidity" department too.

Allan

Many years ago when I was doing a little “oddball” mechanic work on the side, I had a guy come to me that had an M with a cracked block and wanted me to put a different block in it. He said that the engine was in decent shape and didn’t want to spend any more money on it than he needed to. Well, I got into it and it needed a complete re-do from the rings on up. The crankshaft bearings were so bad, I hated to even consider putting them back in. I priced parts out at my cost in an effort to entice him to do it right. He refused! I couldn’t believe it! For another $100 he could have had fresh rings and bearings in that M and refused!

I ended up putting in the old rings, shimming the crankshaft bearings so that they were halfway close to spec, and then to top it off, he told me since it was June to put in just water, no anti-freeze! After that comment, I didn’t wonder any more why the block was cracked!

The guy came and picked up the M, and was amazed that it had 45 PSI of oil pressure at half throttle, and he said he’d never seen the gauge up that high before! I just took the cash, and told him that the first time the temperature got to 33 degrees F, the warranty expired on my work. I heard through the rumor mill that the block was cracked again the next spring, and that he was having problems fouling plugs.

Now “Einstein” (Allen in NE), tell me again how fixing up something the right way is “stupid”?

I know. I do not do "junk". Never have and never will.

If I can't afford to do something right, all the way right, I just do without.

It is expensive yes, but I gots nice toys. :>)

Allan

Turns out I have a 1948, SN 163182, so big timing gears are going to be part of the cost of putting on an OEM system, although I have seen a couple used OEM pumps on ebay for ~$200. Dunno what gears are going to cost.