B Farmall Exhaust Lift - do you want one?

The master mold and initial casting run will set me back many thousands of dollars. It"s pretty expensive. (doesn"t even include the flipper inside)

"IF" I take the plunge and do this, what do you think people will be willing to pay? The e-bay auctions for exhaust lift related parts are just nuts!! I"m thinking $100+ dollars???

Am I nuts or should I do this? Do you know anybody that wants/needs one? Is there support for this? I still have to convince my wife. :-)

Thanks!

Mike M.

K

I have a choice of going with the original (whatever that is) or going with something like high temp stainless.

Obviously stainless would be superior since it doensn't oxidize. But would anybody actually want a stainless one, even if its not 100% original equipement? Are restorer folks that fussy?

Where can I get the new flapper and the L shaped rod? I have one of each but are rusted badly. To make new ones it would be nice to have an original.

Mike M.

My BN has a BN-187 two way plow that's all set up for the exhaust lift (now it uses a custom built hydro setup that works, but looks pretty odd) and would love to get it hooked back up so it looked original.

I think I would try to make the a new manifold valve better then original if possable, the old one has it's problems, why make a new one with the new one the same way?

Count me in if you need any help!

No joiners just coulters. I've plowed with them once and they worked well after I figured out how to adjust every thing. It was great fun plowing as well, and I would do it every year but the plows take a half a day to install!

I think I'm going to get my disks back, turn up some ground with the plows, disk it, and then try the A-110 check row planter I have (it's been modified to fit the BN). Someday....

K

It is hard to overestimate the size of the market for A's and B's. Many thousands in collections and many more just waiting, trying to avoid the scrap heap by hiding in old barns and fence rows.