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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Breaking engine free on 10-20

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Mcoder

01-26-2005 16:41:02




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Hi Folks,
Having never overhauled an engine before I have what is probably a stupid question. The engine is in a 1926 10-20 and is stuck, the top of the engine (rings, piston tops and sleeves) are very rusty, the bottom of the engine (crank, rods and caps) look good and are all lubed and shiny. I've removed the head, oil pan, fan assembly and have removed the split ring thereby disconnecting the clutch from the transmission. I've been soaking the cylinders in various fluids and penetrating oils for several months. So my question is this: Do I need any more disassembly before try to pound the pistons free? Do I need to remove the clutch, rod caps or governor housing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

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El Toro

01-27-2005 04:35:59




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 Re: Breaking engine free on 10-20 in reply to Mcoder, 01-26-2005 16:41:02  
I used dextron on a Farmall A that had the head and pan removed when I bought it. The cylinders were very rusty and I couldn't get the engine free
so I pulled the engine and used a piece of 2 X 2 maple to drive on the rods. One piston came out
and the other 3 came out with the sleeves. I used
a torch to heat the sleeves and the other pistons came out very easily. I think what "old" suggested using gas or diesel fuel to heat up the cylinders will work, but be careful and do not have anything flammable near the engine. Do it outside too.

Someone posted yesterday saying he had used Rust Check to free up an engine. Be careful around that crankshaft so you do not damage it with the hammer. We had a 10-20 when
I was a kid and it was bought in 1926 before I was born. They had a Fordson before that and my dad could never get it started. I don't remember when that 10-20 wouldn't start. Hal

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Dixieland

01-26-2005 19:43:57




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 Re: Breaking engine free on 10-20 in reply to Mcoder, 01-26-2005 16:41:02  
Might want to check this out.
http://www.rustcheck.com/



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andy b.

01-26-2005 19:21:03




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 Re: Breaking engine free on 10-20 in reply to Mcoder, 01-26-2005 16:41:02  
i'm working on a 1939 F-14. i had the cylinders full of auto tranny fluid and kerosene for about 10 months. two of the pistons looked good, one had a bit of rust around the edge between the piston and cylinder, and one had a good bit of rust, but wasn't a corroded mess. the engine was quite stuck though. i took all four rod caps off and used a block of wood to knock the two okay-looking pistons out the top of the block. the crank still wouldn't move due to the other two pistons being pretty stuck. i then took a big piece of brass rod (about 1" diameter) and banged on the rod ends. the one piston broke free after a couple of hits and them the wood block got it out the rest of the way. the last piston needed about 5 minutes of banging. granted, i wasn't smashing the hammer into the brass rod, but i was giving it good solid whacks with a medium-sized hammer. if it wasn't for the condition of the last cylinder, i probably could've cleaned things up and got new rings and re-used everything. i just opted for a complete piston and sleeve kit from Rice's though, as it cost about the same as having engine work done and buying new rings.

andy b.

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old

01-26-2005 17:55:05




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 Re: Breaking engine free on 10-20 in reply to Mcoder, 01-26-2005 16:41:02  
Depends on how much time you want to take. If you have the time, I'd start with putting tranny fluid/oil in the cylinders and let it sit. Keep doing it and keeping each cylinder full for a month or so. Then if you can get it out side where its safe to do this, put say about 1 once of gas in each cylinder and lite it. Let it burn till it goes out. After it cools down you will probably be able to brake it loose. What that does is warms up the cylinders but the pistons don't get very warm/hot so the walls of the cylinders pull away from the pistons/rings.

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Nebraska Cowman

01-26-2005 17:32:11




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 Re: Breaking engine free on 10-20 in reply to Mcoder, 01-26-2005 16:41:02  
my advice would be to get half a dozen stuck auto engines from the junkyard to practice on. The first engine I unstuck was a 1947 Fraiser, No, I never did get it running but I did get it unstuck. Later I dissasembled a Star engine. I still regret that one but when you are a young kid you do stupid things. I would say you have the 10-20 tore apart far enough. Sometimes it works to unhook some of the rod caps. just depends which cylinders are stuck and if you can even get at the bolts. I did even cut a rod off with a torch once but it was already bent so nothing was lost. I use an iron bar and a sledge hammer and work around the outside edge of the piston. When the oil sprays back on your glasses it is coming unstuck. clean the rust off the best you first. Some guys use a block of wood but I never had much luck. I say if you can get them loose with wood they ain't "stuck"

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