Single-Point Hitch/Turning Plow Questions

Questions:
a. Move the fast hitch connection to the "U" bar (directly under the seat) needs to be moved to the left so as to cock the fast hitch to the right to position the plow closer to the right wheel track?
b. Loose or rigid diagonal link? c. Set rear-rocker arm connection to the peg setting that gives more up and down movement range (the plow drags the ground in the up position)?
d. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

Any ideas are appreciated. The good news is the tractor hunkered down and pulled well the couple times the plows got down deep.
TIA
Bill

My first question what is the wheel tread setting on tractor, center to center on rear wheels. I find my plow gives optimum performance at 52" tread setting. I can make 56" work, but it is a bit of a chalange. I have never tried 48". Is the levelling screw on the left side of hitch? I've seen a few of those get changed to right side of hitch, just will not work. Sounds to me as though your levelling crank, and on the left must be lengtened.

One other item you will find with those little plows, points will wear down to a certain point, and that is it. From there it just seems as though that right front moldboard will ride the left rear moldboard right out of soil. It seem as though the more you lower the depth control the worse this situation becomes. It is rather frustrating as I have seen trailer plows with same moldboard and point, that would plow well with more wear.

One thing I quite often do is weld truck spring on top of point tip. I weld this parallel with line of travel, extend it back and up point 6", thus allowing 4 to 5 inches to protrude past end of point. This tends to replace point, thus giving plow more suck. I find you can only do this once with each set of points as the share portion is worn by then.

Question: Is the fast-hitch diagonal link left loose or should it be locked-down when using the turning plow?

Question: Would this plow work well if I were to take the back plow off the frame and use it as a single plow? Our clay is hard to pull through.
Thanks for your insights and suggestions.
Bill

Your diagnol link should be unlocked thus allowing hitch side movement. The land sides are what keeps plow straight, not the tractor. I tried taking one bottom off once to plow under some old low bush blueberries. It's more work than it looks. My plow may be different from yours as Canadian built plows from Hamilton ON plant used some different features than US built plows, then to confuse us even more there is some evidence both types were sold both sides of border. On some plows, bottoms can't be removed as you can't take beam off, it being part of upper frame. If you can remove the beam, then you must remove long land side from back bottom and place it on front one. Lot of work with rusty bolts.