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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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10-20 engine freed, piston/sleeve question

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Greg (TX)

02-26-2005 16:34:04




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Yeah!! After several months of soaking and pounding I finally got the 10-20 pistons to move a little, about an inch back and forth. Do I need to keep working it to get a complete revolution or should I proceed to remove the rod caps and try pounding the pistons out from below? The head was a mess with mouse nests on the top of the cylinders and lots of corrosion (mouse pee, etc.). Bottom end looks great; crank, rods, caps and cam all lubed and shiny. I don't have much work room since the engine is still mounted in the frame and I'm doing it in a small garage. I've never done a project like this before and want to thank everyone for all the help you've given me with this project so far. I still have a long way to go but todays success has given me new inspiration. Thanks in advance for any additional guidance you can provide.

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dlp

02-27-2005 16:17:54




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 Re: 10-20 engine freed, piston/sleeve question in reply to Greg (TX), 02-26-2005 16:34:04  
I believe the pistons come out from the bottom. The crank end of the rod is too big to go through the top.



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dlp

02-27-2005 16:17:48




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 Re: 10-20 engine freed, piston/sleeve question in reply to Greg (TX), 02-26-2005 16:34:04  
I believe the pistons come out from the bottom. The crank end of the rod is too big to go through the top.



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El Toro

02-27-2005 11:02:53




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 Re: 10-20 engine freed, piston/sleeve question in reply to Greg (TX), 02-26-2005 16:34:04  
Hi Greg, Since it posted the last message I'll
retype this again.

If one of those connecting rods is turned downward where you can remove the cap I would try tapping it out with a piece of wood to see if it moves any. Those rods have shims and you should be careful to remove these and reinstall on the rod after you get the piston out. Those rod caps should be numbered and should face the camshaft side of the engine.

These rods have dippers too since the engines back then didn't have oil pumps. Your sleeve may come out with piston, so do not get worried. If it does you can heat those sleeves with a torch, so you canremove the piston. You are probably going to use the old rods. Are you going to pull the engine? That crankshaft is probably egg-shaped due to the oil system they used back then.

It probably will need machining too.
Federal Mogul at one time would rebabbit your old rods like new. They needed the dimensions of the rod journals too. I had the redo some rods off a garden tractor known as the Standard Twin and Viking Twin. I restored 6 of these. These tractors were away ahead of their time since they were all gear driven and had a pto. I still have a moldboard plow off one of them that I adapted to my garden tractor. I've had that plow since 1960. I changed the point once. Hal

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El Toro

02-27-2005 10:44:54




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 Re: 10-20 engine freed, piston/sleeve question in reply to Greg (TX), 02-26-2005 16:34:04  
I had a message for you, but it wouldn't send it.
I'll see if this goes through. Hal



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El Toro

02-27-2005 03:37:13




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 Re: 10-20 engine freed, piston/sleeve question in reply to Greg (TX), 02-26-2005 16:34:04  
Hi Greg, I would keep pouring transmission fluid
into those cylinders to see if the pistons will
free up. Since you can move the pistons slightly
I would keep trying to rotate the engine. We had a 10-20 when I was a kid. It was bought before I was born in 1926. It replaced a Fordson that my late dad couldn't never get started and they kicked like a mule. They had a problem of flipping backwards too. You could probably drive
out those pistons, but it may be difficult to do that if the crankshaft is in the wrong position.
I drove them out of Farmall A that was seized and the sleeve and piston came out together on two
and the other two pistons came out without the sleeves. I pulled the engine off so I could
work on it easily. Those 10-20's were very good tractors and were easy to start. In 1950 we got an H Farmall. I think they sold that 10-20 for $200.00. They should've kept it. Hal

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