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M transmission drive coupling---how lose is ok?

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zooeyhall

03-21-2005 17:10:03




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I have had a slight rattle under the battery of my M tractor at idle, that only happens when the clutch is engaged. At first I thought there was something wrong with the trans. pilot bearing. I dropped the hydraulic pump and discovered there is looseness in the drive coupling. This is the coupling on the shaft that goes from the clutch back to the transmission, the one that uses four bolts and rubber washers. There is enough play that I can twist the shaft back and forth and up and down about 1/4 inch or so. I am thinking the wear is more in the four bolt holes in the "center" piece of this coupling, and maybe some in the bolts.

Can someone tell me how much play is too much in this coupler? I truly am grateful for any advice!

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Aces

03-22-2005 07:52:18




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 Re: M transmission drive coupling---how lose is ok in reply to zooeyhall, 03-21-2005 17:10:03  
There sould be no play at all.



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zooeyhall

03-22-2005 06:30:42




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 Re: M transmission drive coupling---how lose is ok in reply to zooeyhall, 03-21-2005 17:10:03  
Checked with my local CaseIH dealer today, and ordered the parts. Everything is available, but YIKES!--the price!!!

Bolts (4) 48968DAX $15.97 ea.
Rubber washers (8) 6161H $1.69 ea.
Joint Ring 48967DA $85.36

Maybe I should have checked a used parts yard for this, but I figure they are likely to be as worn as mine is is. I suppose the holes could be welded and redrilled, but there could be a problem with alignment afterwards.

It looks like there goes another 100 bushels of corn down the drain, to pay for this...

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scotc

03-22-2005 19:45:40




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 Re: M transmission drive coupling---how lose is ok in reply to zooeyhall, 03-22-2005 06:30:42  
must be made of 50% unobtainium, 16 dollar bolts.



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Randy SE-MN

03-22-2005 05:37:23




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 Re: M transmission drive coupling---how lose is ok in reply to zooeyhall, 03-21-2005 17:10:03  
I had the same problem on my M. The taper bolts were worn and grooved real bad and the coupler flange holes were elongated. I filled the grooves in the bolts with braze, and hand filed them down. I have a good relationship with some yards, and one of them "hand selected" a real good flange they had on the shelf. I heard the flange itself was expensive so I trook a chance, and came out ok. I then got new rubber bushings and related hardware and it all went together real well. Good luck on your machine...Randy

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williamf

03-21-2005 17:27:28




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 Re: M transmission drive coupling---how lose is ok in reply to zooeyhall, 03-21-2005 17:10:03  
I'm not sure how much too much, but what you describe is too much. The purpose of that coupling is to allow for less than perfect alignment between the clutch and the transmission drive shaft. What play it has in it should be just the flexibility of the rubber washers. Since you've got the liftall pump out already.....
Once you get the coupling apart you should be able to see which parts of it need to be replaced. I'm sure those parts are readily available, but I haven't a clue what they'd cost. I hope you'll let us know how it comes out; my H is probably about due for the same. When I had the shaft out for some transmission work I mis-reassembled that coupling on the first try. It seemed ok after I straightened it out, but I think I may have shortened its life.
Good luck, Wm

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