International Diesel running like a dog... :(

I took the fuel tank off to rebuild my steering system (and to clean it out etc too) and ever since it just doesn't run right.

The fuel is fresh and clean, filter is new, fuel pump is a-ok and freshly cleaned, lines were blown out, glass bowl cleaned, etc. I'll also mention that the air intake is freshly cleaned and re-oiled as well.

Tractor is very slow to rev up, even in neutrel. At full throttle it has a bit of a miss to it. Feels like it is only running on three cylinders.

Sounds like an air issue, doesn't it? Yet the plastic return tubes are bubble-free, and I can crack each injector line in turn and get pressurized fuel spray with an accompanying reduction in engine speed.

This is my first diesel, so I am learning alot as I go. Honestly, it has been a royal PITA but again its all new to me.

Any advice? I still have to split the tractor for the clutch fork, so I will probably have to repeat the whole process again but if it is something simple.....?

Thx!

did you happen to get #1 fuel instead of #2. this will make it bang and clang a little more-less power because it is thinner fuel.....

Fuel is garden variety diesel from the Gales station on the corner ;) The last can I added was dyed, the first was not.

Is there a way to test the injectors? What is the best method to clean them?

Keeping things clean, a big item working on diesel injection systems. Your kind in the same catergory as a surgeon, while working on an open diesel fuel system. If and when you go to a diesel injection shop, just observe how careful these guys on cleanliness, that is if they allow you in the work room. I know an old time engine rebuilder, who would never assemble an engine with people in shop. He said, "Folks milling about create dust and dirt, don't want that under a rod bearing cap."

I had it running (strong) after the lines/filters etc. were cleaned. I had the tank off to get to the steering box after that, and that is when my problems started. While it was off I cleaned it out too... but those familiar with these tractors know that the steering column runs thru a tube in the middle of the tank, so there are plenty of places for dirt to hide!

Could be dirt...? Dunno, we were so careful and we did cap everything... but I guess its possible that we missed something.

I'll get some of that cleaner from Husky today and put it in... has anyone ever had success with that stuff? I've used injector cleaner in EFI cars and never noticed any difference. But if its going to involve a pro it will have to wait until after I split it because the lines will all be open again anyways, and I'd rather do it once.

Any other suggestions--keep'em coming guys!

Thanks,
Derek

On the photo, yes we often do wonder what the face on the other end of that discussion looks like. I often thought it would be a good idea to have a section here at YT for photos of people. Then I see what was done with a couple of photos on the net, I can see people being a bit reluctant on having their photo made public on forums.

dyed or not, as long it was #2 fuel it shouldn't make a differance, just cheaper..... .....

Sure sounds like a suction air leak but with a clear return line then it must be partial plugged somewhere.

On my 7.3 PSD I use ATF type F at 1qt/100gal#2 and does that ever quiten down the injector noise as it's a very good lubericant. I've been using this since new so I'm keeping the system very clean.

I also triple filter my fuel, once at the pump into a aux tank then into a Racor 10micron then into a Dahl 2 micron into my main tank then thru the factory Racor filter. Even with the new fuel system you should see all the crud that I trap.

One of the best fuel system cleaners is Biodiesel. Guys that run B100 say they plug a fuel filter with in a short time, change filters then plug another one in about 1/2 of normal filter change time, then the 3rd fliter is back to normal of what #2D filter change was.

The only problem with B100 is it will soften non-biodiesel rated seals and hose to where they need replaced. However there is a question of just how long this takes to happen. Some of the early VW diesels guys report dropping a injection pump every so often (40k miles or so) but is that from them making a bad homebrew biodiesel batch or from seal failure? To shade tree to tell exactly why.

If that was my tractor, I would look at it from this point. I can't use the engine the way it is, so if I don't try to fix it with existing parts, I'm going to have to buy rebuilt parts.

I would then remove the filters, disconnect the feed to the injection pump, drain the #2 from the tank, run a full tank of B100 and re-circulate that thru the tank and line until clean.

After the tank and line was clean, install new filters, connect the injection pump feed, fire the engine. If that didn't correct the problem. then remove each injector line to each injector and clean them.

Being very carefull with part placement and settings and being very "clean" take apart each injector and clean with Berryman B12, then re-install. B12 will dislove carbon build up as you watch it work it's magic.

If that didn't help then your down to the injection pump. Same sequence.

The way I look at it, if I don't help the system, I have to buy rebuilt injectors and pump so the only thing I've lost is my time. The tank and lines will be clean for the re-built parts.

If I get lucky, my engine will run smooth again.

I would strongly suggest a full set of IH manuals before starting this project. YtMag sells a great set of IH manuals for a reasonable cost.

T_Bone

T_Bone

So far, no dice. Also seems to use large amounts of fuel like this--approximately 1/4 tank per hour!

I have not tried the ATF method yet, although it has been recommended to me by a few people. I figure I'll run out the Kleen-Flo fuel first.

My prediction is that I'll have to start from scratch at the tank again... but first I gotta split the tractor for that damn clutch fork. I would have done it already but I needed to give the Farmall A/Forklift a bunch of long-overdue attention, which now suddenly has electrical woes. :( Can't seem to win. My start circuit (no mechanical switch, Ford style solenoid instead) ain't working as of today, which had to be the case since I had the hydraulic issues whipped. All the while my brand new starter clattering away since the return spring isn't strong enough (never did get a return email from dbelectrical).

AND the Jubilee needs a wire replaced on the start switch too...

Damn tractors are giving me fits.