Super C question

I have a complete kit and I need to get the head down to a machine shop for guide installation and valve grinding.

Anyone know where I can get the specs/clearances/valve grind angles etc. for the head work so the machinist knows how to get the job done right?

These engines sure are tough, the poor thing ran the last ten years with a cracked piston. It's done well for a free tractor, have just been using it for light mowing and keeping a 1/4 mile of gravel drive maintained.

Can't wait to se what it does with new valves/springs/pistons and sleeves. I bet runs so good I'll have to repaint and restore it.

Also what's the best way to get a line on a fast hitch setup or hydraulic operated three point hitch?

You should also take the crankshaft there for measurement and for any machining or polishing.
That should include the block too to remove any sludge and to clean the oil passages.

Make sure that block is clean of all rust and scale where the sleeve seals are installed. Very important to prevent any coolant leakage. Hal

Keep checking that oil pan for any coolant leakage. Hal

I got this tractor for free ten years ago. It was a working tractor but the guy's hand forgot to put the can on the muffler after the last hay for the season and it sat all winter with rain getting in and stuck it.

He tried to sell it to a tractor place and was offered $500, that's with a working sickle blade mower, and cultivator under the front. He got so mad he said he'd give it away first, and I happened to be the first guy to express interest when I was servicing his water well.

I got it unstuck, even though I found a piece of piston skirt inthe oil the first oil change, it's run well enough to maintain the road and mow for ten years. I found a piston cracked across 1/3 held together by the rings when I tore it open. Talk about bulletproof.

I can't wait to see how it runs with a new valve job and 4 good pistons.

Now if I can get a good deal on a 2 point hitch, or a hydraulic 3 point I'll be all set for hopefully another 50 years.

By the way, the method I used to unstick is one I haven't seen here, remove starter and use a 6' pry bar on the flywheel starter teeth, after soaking cylinders in oil for 2 weeks of course. Major leverage that way.