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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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MUFFLER

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MITCHP

08-08-2005 12:05:32




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I REPLACED THE MUFFLER ON MY 66 FARMALL 140 WITH A SHORTER ONE SO I COULD GET IT IN THE BASEMENT. THE NEW MUFFLER CAME FROM TRACTOR SUPPLY BUT THE INLET WAS TOO SMALL, SO I TOOK IT TO A MUFFLER SHOP AND HAD THEM TO EXPAND THE INLET WHICH WORKED, PROBLEM IS NOW I HAVE AIR LEAKING AROUND WHEN THE MUFFLER WENT OVER THE EXAUST. AFTER AWHILE ITS GONNA TURN PART OF MY HOOD BLACK. I NOTICED I HAD A PROBLEM WHEN I PUT A RAIN CAP ON IT AND IT DIDN'T WANT TO MOVE UP VERY MUCH UNLESS IT WAS AT FULL THROTTLE. CAN I GET A CLAMP THAT IS A FEW INCHES WIDE I CAN CLAMP ON THE MUFFLER TO ENSURE NO LEAKS? ANYBODY HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT TO DO? COULD I CUT OFF PART OF THE EXUAST BELOW HOOD LEVEL AND PUT THE MUFFLER BACK ON?

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Hugh MacKay

08-09-2005 03:24:46




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
mitch: I wouldn't shorten the exhaust pipe from the manifold. If you put that mufler down closer to the hood it will burn the paint off hood. Go with Mike's idea of making a cut with hacksaw on each side of mufler inlet, then put a good clamp on it.

You'll soon know if that mufler creates too much back presure, those little C-123 engines will burn the guts right out of a mufler long before you hurt valves. I use a straight pipe on my 130 as it will even burn up an IH replacment mufler in about 2 years. I wouldn't put a series of pipe and elbos for down under mufler either. I saw a guy do that and he did burn valves.

I have a mufler on my Super A, about the length you need. I picked it up used at a fleamarket. I believe it is from a Cockshutt 20. I mow with SA thus I wanted shorter exhaust for going under trees. As for the hinged rain cover on these little gas engines, take it off and heave it as far as you can. These little engines don't blow the cap completely open, thus you burn the cap up quite quickly. Carry a soup can in your tool box.

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Don L C

08-08-2005 19:24:45




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
Touch it with a welder.....take it off first...



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Dave BN

08-08-2005 19:18:26




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
Yea, OEM has the clamp you need. It's about an inch in width. I wouldn't go to a straight pipe but might shop around for a better muffler for your needs. Go to the Wisconson Historical Society and look thru the IH photo archive. The letter series tractors had short fat mufflers when they came from the factory. They look a lot like a car muffler. Dave.



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CNKS

08-08-2005 17:44:15




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
I believe OEM Tractor Parts has an original type clamp that is wider. You can also reduce the leak by using a small piece of sheet metal between the exhaust pipe and the muffler. I don't believe I would try to put the clamp below the hood. I don't think it would fit and you will just mess up your hood removing the muffler when you need to remove the hood. There are a few nasty comments below, just ignore them. If you have to get it in the basement, there is only so much you can do. You would be better off if you could at least find a muffler that fits the pipe.

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Dellbertt

08-08-2005 16:24:00




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
I think a couple guys missed the point that you know you are doing a custom job for a specific reason that's why stock mufflers won't work. Someone mention black pipe and I think that might be your way to go by using elbows etc. to make a "downpipe muffler". Anyway my only suggestion is to start measuring ID and OD and lengths before you start buying and cutting. Have fun.



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Michael Soldan

08-08-2005 15:47:53




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
Mitchp, having worked in an auto repair shop I learned that you need to take a hack saw and make cuts in the pipe about an inch to an inch and a half long, usually two cuts which gives 4 slits, this allows the pipe to contract as you tighten the clamp. Your cuts ahould be determined by how far on the muffler end slides onto the manifold pipe. We often had do it yourselfers come into the shop to say their muffler or tail pipe had worked loose even though they really tightened it good...I'd take it off, cut slits and install and that would be the end of it.....Mike in Exeter Ontario

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Andy Martin

08-08-2005 13:25:34




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
Sounds like the muffler shop may have expanded the pipe too much.

If you don't have a clamp on it, put one on. A standard muffler clamp will bend the metal back to make a tight fit.

I'm not sure what a "cob job" is but I do know you are taking a reasonable course to get the tractor to fit into your space. Nat gets a little twisted and comes across as belittling someone instead of helping with their problem. I just wish I knew as much about these old tractors as he does. Usually he does give good advice when he gets around to it.

I highly doubt that if the muffler really is too small that the muffler shop could have expanded it enough. There is a limit as to how much you can stretch them.

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Nat

08-08-2005 12:42:29




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
Part of your problem is trying to do a "cob job" in the first place. If the muffler didn't fit, you should have returned it.

Did you clamp the muffler on? A standard clamp should be more than adequate to seal up the major leaks, and tiny ones will seal on their own with carbon and corrosion in a short time.

Don't do another "cob job" by chopping off the exhaust stack!!! First off, how will you get to the clamp under the hood? Second off, the body of the muffler will be so close to the hood that it'll burn the paint off.

Is your exhaust stack any good in the first place? It may be so rusted out that it's leaking, and no amount of clamping or chopping is going to help. All you can do is remove and replace with new black iron water pipe of the right size.

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mitchp

08-08-2005 13:09:04




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to Nat, 08-08-2005 12:42:29  
well nat, this is the only one i could find, i needed it to be 15" or less, the one that came on it was like 30" and was way too tall. i wasn't intending to do a cob job, just trying to make things work, i'm glad John Deere's are not this hard to deal with



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Dr.EVIL

08-08-2005 13:56:28




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to mitchp, 08-08-2005 13:09:04  
How many "John Deeres" do You have in Your basement? They must all be toys if You do. That or You really don't know ANYTHING about JD's. Sounds like what You really needed was just a 12-14" long straight pipe.... I'd throw the muffler away. Those sweet running little IHC 4-cylinders run much quieter than those stupid 2-cylinder deeres anyhow.



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MITCHP

08-09-2005 06:18:22




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to Dr.EVIL, 08-08-2005 13:56:28  
If i can't get a farmall 140 in the basement, how do you think i can get a JD 2 cylinder in there? yes i do have toy tractors down there but the big boys are outside under the shed.



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RustyFarmall

08-08-2005 12:35:31




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
I know this is kind of like rubbing salt in the wound but if the muffler didn"t fit you should have taken it back. This another example of why I don"t like to buy tractor parts from any of those farm supply stores.



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Harold H

08-08-2005 12:31:39




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
Sounds like you have too much back pressure. Although you had the inlet pipe expanded to fit, it is still smaller above where it was expanded. This could eventually cause you valve problems. If you still want to keep the smaller muffler, you might could wrap muffler tape under the clamp. In the long run, you will probably be better off cutting off the vertical pipe of a correct muffler. This will lower your height but still allow the exhaust to breath properly.

Harold H

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Matt Lobdell

08-08-2005 12:28:31




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 Re: MUFFLER in reply to MITCHP, 08-08-2005 12:05:32  
There should be some sort of clamp on the muffler anyway, however to maximive your 'visual effect' if at all possible I would do what ever it takes to get the muffler pipe under the hood and clamp it there. The only other thing you could do would be to try and weld the muffler to the pipe. The draw backs to that are your hood could get hot and black anyway, or if you had to remove the muffler for any reason. Good luck - Matt

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