|
The glow plugs can easily be accurately tested in place. It is hard to get an accurate resistance reading when very low Ohms values are encountered, but EASY to get a current draw reading. Current draw is what makes the heat!!! I use an old SUN automotive diagnostic DC ammeter, but if you don't have such a device, simply grab a spare ammeter (such as is used in a tractor dashboard). (30-0-30 or 60-0-60) Put 2 leads on it with alligator clips. Disconnect the power feed wires from all the glow plugs. Connect one clip to the battery's (+) post and touch the other clip to each glow plug in turn. (The meter will read either charge or discharge, depending upon how you've connected the clips. If it reads discharge, you can reverse the clips, for a conventional positive reading, although the actual amperage reading should be the same in either direction.) Take note of each glow plug's current draw, and compare them. Compare the draw to a new one, also, if desired. (Just to be safe, don't power up a glow plug for more than a few seconds at a time, as on certain models several may be connected in series, and will overheat, if powered by a full 12 Volts for an extended length of time. The working glow plugs will usually all draw close to the same amperage, and the "dead" ones will almost always draw "0" Amps. I use this method on a daily basis on Ford (IH) and GM pickup diesel engines, and we get an ocassional 706 or 424 through here, and the method works well with the Binders, too.
| 
