Rear axle bearing replacement on an H

Here's how I understand the job:

1) Drain, jack and securely support rear end

2) Remove rear wheel and PTO

3) Via PTO opening, wedge a hex nut under the bull gear to support it - aids in realigning axle splines on reassembly

4) Remove carrier bolts

5) Remove cap screw from inside end of axle - can place an aluminum block or big socket in between both axles' cap screws while doing this and it will press the axle out

6) Remove axle and carrier assembly

7) Remove outer bearing retainer

8) Hit inside end of axle to drive the outer bearing out

9) Remove inside bearing retainer

10) With a long bar, hit inside bearing out of carrier

11) If there's been some disintegration of the inner bearing, make damn sure to mop out all the pieces before reassembly

Reverse for reassembly.

Any tips on how to align the axle splines with the splines inside the bull gear?

I'm also looking for good sources for the bearings and seals. TIA

Gordo

Thanks for the don't-beat-on-it tip. That'll help prevent some mushrooming of the task, though I'm sure I'll find some new ways to have that happen.

I had to pull my rear axle housings to replace the gaskets and while I was in there found a bad bearing. It sounds like you have the procedure down pretty pat. I included the link from the archives describing how I went about doing mine. HTH Larry

• Pulling Axle Housing

I found that post of yours after I'd made my post of the procedure. I continued fishing around the archives while waiting for responses - I guess I didn't go far enough with my initial searches. I've saved it to my computer as another reference to consult when I finally get up the guts to tackle the job. If I'd found it initially, I probably wouldn't have needed anything else - it was a good, complete, real-world account and I enjoyed reading it. Any ideas on where to buy the bearings? I checked Carter and Gruenwald and the parts, shipped look like about $200 per axle. Yikes! I think I'll upset the purists and see if anyone knows about bearing-house equivalents. Thanks again.

You'll also need a trouble light that you can put inside the case while you're working in there. I'd suggest a 25 to 40 watt bulb, as the bigger ones get pretty hot. An alternative is an old flashlight that you don't mind abusing.

The axle housing is heavier than you think it will be. Don't have your foot under it!

Put some good music on the radio, take your time, and it helps a bunch to have someone working with you. There's not a lot of room to work when going through that PTO hole, but it sure is faster and easier than pulling the platform off the top of the case.

Depending on your tool selection, you may have some difficulty finding a wrench large enough to fit the bolt on the end of the axle, and yet short enough to turn in the space available. A good 1/2" drive ratchet and socket will usually work. I still have a 10" adjustable wrench that a neighbor and I "modified" for that purpose when doing his H under less-than-ideal conditions.

Block that tractor so it CANNOT move while you're working on it. Just putting it in gear isn't going to do it with one rear wheel removed.
Don't leave any tools inside.